VHF Antenna removal

I

igblack87

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This is a follow up from my T-Top Canvas replacement thread. I need to get the antenna base and wire unscrewed before I bring it to the shop.

I am concerned about the screws holding the base of the antenna to the T-Top frame being frozen in place. Should I continuously soak them with PB Blaster and slowly start to tighten/untighten the screws? Is there some other method for best removal? Again, I don't believe they have been touched in the past 5+ years since I have owned the boat.

I am really trying to not have them snap off, that would suck!

I have watched a bunch of YouTube, searched the forum here, I'm looking for your guidance :)T Top vhf antenna.jpg
 
igblack87 said:
This is a follow up from my T-Top Canvas replacement thread. I need to get the antenna base and wire unscrewed before I bring it to the shop.

I am concerned about the screws holding the base of the antenna to the T-Top frame being frozen in place. Should I continuously soak them with PB Blaster and slowly start to tighten/untighten the screws? Is there some other method for best removal? Again, I don't believe they have been touched in the past 5+ years since I have owned the boat.

I am really trying to not have them snap off, that would suck!

I have watched a bunch of YouTube, searched the forum here, I'm looking for your guidance :)View attachment 38042
Click to expand...
It looks like the machine screw were sealed pretty well so I doubt you will have trouble. Have someone hold the head of the screw stationary and turn the nut to begin with. Once the nut starts to turn easily, then the guy with the screwdriver can start turning. Resist the urge to use a power screw gun. You have a chance of causing the threads to seize due to galling if it is spun too quickly.
 
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Are there nuts on the back side?

Do not use a screw gun or impact driver at least initially. Go to Lowes or Home Depot and get new properly sized bits. You are more at risk of stripping the Philips head than breaking it off. Use plenty of PB blaster. Try to slightly tighten and loosen to see if you get any movement. Big Philips with crescent wrench to turn or right angle racketing tool with Philips bit. If no luck and there are nuts on the back use a cutoff tool and turn the screws out. When re-assembling use a little Tef-Gel as an antiseize.
 
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This is the underside of the vhf base. Going to soak it in PB Blaster...literally in a plastic bag.
T Top vhf base.jpg
 
Assuming the holes in the frame were drilled right, the only thread is at the nut.
It is not threaded into the frame.
yes sure, WD40 or the like....
Use a wrench (probably 7/16 on a 1/4-20 screw?)remove the acorn nut and then the nut. Hold the screw with a size 3 phillips.
you might have to tap up with a hammer.
 
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Good stuff to think about... but I'm willing to bet that they come right off. Why not just go try it before talking about it for 3 days? :)

The acorn nut should come right off. The regualr nut might even come right off. If it just twists, then have someone hold the screw head - as noted above... with the proper screw bit size. Make sure they put good downward pressure on it.
 
As Dennis said "good downward pressure". You only really get one shot with a power tool. Hand tools give you better control. If you spin it you are done! It's a real mess from there.on.
 
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DennisG01 said:
Good stuff to think about... but I'm willing to bet that they come right off. Why not just go try it before talking about it for 3 days? :)

The acorn nut should come right off. The regualr nut might even come right off. If it just twists, then have someone hold the screw head - as noted above... with the proper screw bit size. Make sure they put good downward pressure on it
Click to expand...
DennisG01 - i'm taking your comment as a friendly jest :) BUT thats the point of this forum, ask questions, talk things through, is it not? I'll start with the wrench and phillips head on top with good downward pressure!
 
Yes just try it - with the right tools and prep. You get one shot before you strip it and make a project out of it. And if it comes off 1st. try great! That's what we expect.

Good luck!
 
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Since you’re replacing the top, cut a section out to reach both the screw head and nuts.
Two wrenches to loosen the acorn nut from the other nut. Remove both nuts. Screw acorn nut back on, use hammer to break sealant bond and tap the screws out.
 
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Got 3 of the 4 acorn/regular nuts off. The last 2 are soaking in WD 40...I think I can get them. There is a grommet where the antenna wire goes through the T-Top and down into the electronics box - 3 small crews hold it in...that one will be interesting. I'm trying to soak it each day a couple of times to loosen up the screws and crud.
 
igblack87 said:
Got 3 of the 4 acorn/regular nuts off. The last 2 are soaking in WD 40...I think I can get them. There is a grommet where the antenna wire goes through the T-Top and down into the electronics box - 3 small crews hold it in...that one will be interesting. I'm trying to soak it each day a couple of times to loosen up the screws and crud.
Click to expand...
those were easy for me as well, didnt soak at all
 
Thank you all that commented on my question. Got all the screws out without snapping, breaking or stripping them! Soaked them in WD-40 over the past couple of days. When I go to put the antenna back on, going to use all new hardware and some good silicone.
 
When you go to install the antenna bolts overdrill the aluminum holes and install a flanged plastic bushing. The outrigger manufacturers use this technique to "insulate" the stainless hardware from the aluminum tubing so they can be taken apart. I did this with my hardtop when I refinished it and bolted it back on.

Ordered "insulating washers" from McMaster Carr. You may find the 4 you need at Lowes in their misc parts bins.

Screenshot 2025-09-24 at 6.51.46 PM.png
 
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Hookup1 said:
When you go to install the antenna bolts overdrill the aluminum holes and install a flanged plastic bushing. The outrigger manufacturers use this technique to "insulate" the stainless hardware from the aluminum tubing so they can be taken apart. I did this with my hardtop when I refinished it and bolted it back on.

Ordered "insulating washers" from McMaster Carr. You may find the 4 you need at Lowes in their misc parts bins.

View attachment 38072
Click to expand...
Good tip, thank you!
 
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