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A couple things I forgot to mention, the Clarion does accept a dash mounted remote (this year $$), and for an antenna, all you need is the $10 cheap-o from BW or West. You can see in the photo the black cable that leads to the antenna which just lays in the cuddy. I do not recommend the...

Sorry! Yes, they are matching speakers, just washed out by the sun. I am VERY happy with the JBL's. I had aft box speakers tucked under the gunwale but like this sound/set-up better.

I have a 228 and did my stereo last year. I installed a Clarion deck, 6.5" JBL Marine speakers aft (see photo) and 2 3" mini box speakers on the dash tucked down by the wind shield. Awesome all around sound [/img] [/img]

your oil consumption will vary depending on your speed. In the "old days" 2 strokes smoked alot at low idle b/c they were fed the same amount of oil throughout the throttle range. Todays smart engines regulate the amount of oil being sent so they will run leaner at different RPM's.

Raymarine everyday and twice on Sunday.

petit easyposy #3108. Looks like it came out of the factory.

I used the MDR also (small white bottle) and it sucked. Compromised the performance of the sonar.

I misread your post. I thought it said to hard wire to the starting batt. Should be fine on a deep cycle.

3 batteries on a 20' single screw may be a little overkill. I would not recommend hard wiring your stereo to the batt. You will lose your presets but the draw will kill your battery. The bilge is also hard wired but only draws when there is water present. The constant charge/discharge cycles...

my reverse prop is in jest, guys. I would assume it would indeed damage the gears, lower unit, etc. I wouldn't do it, but I'd make jokes about it!

You want matching batteries. Your batteries will only charge as stong as your weakest battery meaning a strong battery won't bring a weak one up, a weak one will bring a strong one down. Starting batteries are "all bark and no bite". Yes, they will start your boat and run your electronics but...

I've heard of people reversing the props on the engines or buying a LHP instead of a RHP but not sure I've "heard the story about running in reverse to limp home"! I'm sure it's happened and has a pretty interesting story accompanied with it! Anyone? Anyone?

ocnslr, I was saying as a general rule, not directed at anyone. With the new interchangeable hub system that most prop manufacturers offer today make swapping out props considerably easier now...especially at sea (and yes, I have been in the rolling water with a pair of needlenose!). I still...

Running w/o a spare prop. is equivilent to running w/o a spare tire IMHO. I spun my prop just cruising across the bay when I ran over a floating peice of Power Pro. Wound so tight it spun the prop. (250 HP Yami SWS II)

Are you looking for the blade or the whole arm? I believe it is just an AFI replacement @ BW or West.

My 2 cents is to go w/ Garelick. they are more money but you get what you pay for. Superior hardware and the stitching & cushions are high quality. Even if you go w/ the Wise seats, get the garelick hardware. You will not be dissapointed. Check out the Shock absorber seats...Awesome!

Spray them down w/ a T9 Bioshield, CRC, etc. Leave the WD-40 in the tool shed.

You'll know if they are hydraulic just by looking at them. They should be high pressure hoses. The trim pump is in the cuddy. The hoses should run concealed the length of the boat. If it's a water hose, it's probably not your tab hose.

Be sure to run the treated fuel thru the engine. Is the OX66 carbed or EFI? Purge your water system pumps, pour anti-freeze in bilge, down scups.

That boat with a 225 on it should push 40 all day long. Check all the wires, replace all the plugs and check the pitch & diameter of the (stainless) prop. Did you have a compression test done? If I'm not mistaken, that engine should be at about 125 psi and all cylinders should be within 5% of...