Search results

All of the above are excellent inputs to consider. Here are my two added points of emphasis: I suggest you install at least one High Water Alarm in your bilge. Think about it - if you are taking on water for any reason, how will you know? Your automatic bilge pump will be working (hopefully)...

I'm the exact same as you. 2006 330 with F250's (2,400 hours now). You, like me, will probably achieve 5,700 RPM's WOT if the boat is light and in calm water. Perhaps the only difference besides weight and sea condition to the 2007 330 is props. I cruise at 4,300 to 4,400 RPM's doing 22-24...

The area under the gunnels is perpetually wet and dirty on most 330's. For me, I prefer top quality speakers above the helm on the sides of the cabinets (up there where most 330's have speakers) matched to a powerful Amplifier. The sound coming out of my system will physically hurt you if...

They are good boats but like any boat of that age, you need to really inspect them. The F300 wasn't even out when my boat was built (2006) so if you want the 300's, you'll be looking for one that was repowered. We have had our 330 for 11 years. The twin F250's easily cruise the boat at 22-23...

I recommend you get a bigger and much better security lock. That new Yamaha could easily disappear soon and end up on Craig's List somewhere South of Maine. Today's cordless saws can go through your cable in a few seconds. The better locks are the ones that can't be cut - like the ones that...

"I have 2 fuel fittings/lines coming out of the top of the tank. Both are square with threads coming out forming the 90s. Are these the check valves you are talking about. One has a shutoff and goes straight to a RACOR filter the other line disappears behind the tank." The fuel fitting on top...

100 amp is a big one. My guess is it's for your bow thruster or generator. But I think your generator 100 amp fuse (not re-setable) is under that clear cover below the black breaker. Since that breaker is in the "off" position, something big must not be working (?).

Congratulations. You made the right decision to have the job done. Now you can sleep better at night not thinking about this and start enjoying your boating season. Well done. Put all of this behind you now brother!

Dennis, The wax plug can be fully removed. I make it stick on the outside of the drain tube and I didn't jam it in there (at least not very far). Regardless, you can fully remove the wax down there if you remove the caulked in deck panel (for better access). I still kinda agree with leaving...

If the holding tank discharge seacock is left open, there's a good chance water will enter the holding tank when you're running at planning speed. Just like when your livewell fills up when the seacock for it is left open. Just my two cents...

Mine did exactly what yours did - quit after 10 minutes or so of run time. After about 9 months I finally figured out what the problem was. It was a semi clogged Check Valve. The check valve sits on top of your remote fuel tank and has a barbed fitting on it leading to your bulkhead mounted...

If you want to plug the drain between the fuel tank compartment to the stern bilge, this is easily done after a quick visit to your local Ace Hardware store. All you need are two inexpensive items: 1. a Toilet Wax ring seal, and 2. a 3 foot piece of 1x2 On my 330, my arms are not long enough...

Side Question: Shouldn't the drain aft of the Fuel Tank compartment always be left OPEN so as to allow bilge water to drain? Is keeping it plugged really a safety feature?

I'd check the VST filter if it has not been cleaned or replaced in the last 700 hours.

I heard hard water also breaks down your wax layer. Once you get the hard water spots off (as per above suggestions - I like Vinegar spray), I think it wise after your next trip to spend a little extra time and water blade, swipe off the hard water and chamois your glass and gel coat as best...

I too have a 2006 330 Express. Owned the boat for 11 years and I still don't know what those red re-set buttons actually "do". As the name implies - what "circuit breaker" is this protecting? And like - why not put it on the DC panel with all the other 12V circuit breakers? Why in a damp...

Yes and, with the imperfect water tight seal under the transom bang plate, how how how, in this example, more damage did NOT occur?

So great to hear that the repair was only needed 2 inches down from the bang plate. Of course, your fiberglass guy didn't think it necessary to go beyond 2 inches. I'm curious why, how? there could have been no structural weakening of the transom if that area was wet. Like - how could it not...

No Dumb Questions here... No two amps and no two Installers are the same I guess. Yes, I am very sure I have an Amp (600 watt, 3 Channel, Class D by JL Audio). It's a big one that throws a decent amount of heat. On my system, it will physically hurt your ears if dialed up. But my 330 was...

My amp is located behind the panel on the PORT side in the aft bunk area. Take your flashlight, remove the 4 screws and I'll bet it's right there mounted horizontally.