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You could try moving it from the "over the top" to "under the top" with a spacer to get past the lip. That won't cost anything but time and can be undone if it doesn't pan out. Definitely would need wide plates for top washers. Hardtop is balsa cored. Washers would pull through with the weight...

If you are posting from an iPhone you can reduce size of pix and change format to jpeg You have to change this Before you select the image

VST filter injectors plug coils,, take a coil off the good motor and rotate it thru positions in the bad motor....

I have found that 4200 gets mildew stains. Grady used it in a few spots...hardtop, pulpit... I made the mistake of resealing one of the gunnels with 4200. Looks like crap now. Never comes back to white no matter what I do. Need to dig it out and replace with "window & door silicone"

No one can really naswer your question. Your tanks are your tanks. They lived their own life. The Grady Model doesn't matter. The fact that its a Grady doesnt matter. What someone elses boat did doesnt matter. There have been many aluminum tanks that failed in 20 years. You look at them as...

I have had an intermittent bad switch caused the same clicking as you describe. The tell was that when you tightened/loosened the nut on the FEED post, the whole thing moved a little. I have had a motor cable that was green inside that caused the same clicking as you describe. I have had a loose...

You mean Bomar Hatch. readily availbe from WM,Defender,etc. They usually list outer dimension of lid and the cutout size

So...that is some really old stuff. Does it steer? You have fittings in the motorwell. So yes you just need the 3' hoses(or same length as what you see) ...assuming whats on the other side of the fittings is good. The other side of those fittings might be metal hydraulic lines to the helm...

what do you mean by "the batteries are 24V"?

get new switch covers

Forget the meter.

It looks like you have an Airmar B744V "triducer". It has a paddle wheel for speed? They require a 2" hole. The direct replacements for a modern CHIRP with 2" hole are B765(LH, LM) & B785M.

Check the connection of the "motor to battery" or "Starter" cable. The Neg will be connected to a battery and the Pos will be on the "feed" post of the Battery Switch. A good test would be to connect the Pos and Neg motor wires directly to a battery. That bypasses all switches and jumpers...

Hard to tell with the paint ..It looks like you have an Airmar B744V "triducer". It has a paddle wheel for speed? Its mounted on flat spot. Its just the bronze housing, no plastic fairing? They require a 2" hole. The direct replacements for a modern CHIRP with 2" hole are B765(LH, LM) & B785M...

It has electronics that control a RELAY that Combines (makes parallel) the batteries when there is a charging source(running motor). It isolates the batteries when there is no charging source(motor not running). There are thresholds of voltages that cause Lockout(prevents Combining). Without the...

idk what the mechanicalal key/start is like. On my fly by wire, the KEY does not have a start position, just an ON position. There are start buttons for each motor. Running to the start solenoid sounds like a good option. Like seasick said, there are a lot of underlying causes to electronics...

Exactly!

Go on blue seas site and look at the diagram and instructions

I pondered doing something with the bubble and after a half assed assesment determined it was more trouble than its worth. I'm pretty sure you have to remove the windshield

If the house is separate from starting batteries, then starting motor cannot effect the House 12v. Separate your 12V House from the starting batteries https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/new-battery-config-for-265.25744/ If you have ACRs on your batteries they should be SI (start interupt)...