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Hmmm? You had euro-oval switch? Mine would not go in. Had to dremel tool the hole in the aluminum panel open to get a Contura in there. Ended up getting a new panel made anyways.

Those are McGill 'euro-oval" switches. They were crap. And the holes in the panel are smaller than a new Contura switch housing which makes replacing switches a pain. Get a new panel made with Contura switches. You might find some used McGill oval switches on eBay just to get you going...

hehehehe....have we solved it yet? Where's my donut?

so, it’s not that it’s for a third battery. It’s that it’s actually better when you’re using the second battery as the house. The point of the aux charging is to charge the house battery all the time and to use the start battery only for starting and raising and lowering your motor. You would...

Oh. I understand. You didn’t separate the house as bat 2. You are Correct that in position 2 the bat1 is not connected to the motor and so it doesn’t charge. The point of the aux cable is to charge bat2 at all times. So you don’t need to switch to 2 to charge it. You would run on 1 and 2...

Doesn’t sound right, unfortunately I don’t have time to look at it right now

Ohio? freshwater boat? much less worries. Often the screws at the sending unit are a good indicator.

I will preface this by saying that I ran a 20 footer for 18 years with a single Group 27 dual purpose and no battery switch. Every 5 years I replaced the battery. As long as there was nothing left "on" on my dash, I didn't need a battery switch. I had a VHF, gps/ff and lights. No stereo. I now...

in a typical setup from grady, one motor, one switch, two batteries, "2" is not "the House". The house is connected to the FEED (or COM) of the switch along with the "starter" cable of the motor. The house battery is whichever one the switch is on. The same one that starts the motor and gets...

If you have a severely discharged or damaged battery and you parallel it with a good charged one, it will "try to charge" the bad battery. In extremes, it can move a lot of current and not be pretty. It will definitely discharge the good battery, possibly leaving you screwed. For that reason...

Is there a loose zinc attached to the tab? Barnacles?

Boston Cream

Can't tell from your pix but when you mount centerline, you can shorten the height of the fairing quite a bit because there is no hull angle to match.. It only has to be as thick as the bronze transducer housing. That would also be a great place for a GT51M-TH. Don't even need a fairing. You...

I'm guessing that shipping is what is killing you. I was able to find a distributor in NY that I could pickup from. Was worth a couple hrs driving. I'm looking at CarbonCore website. CarbonBond TPC is $250 per 5 gal bucket. I needed 3 buckets for my V20. Can't imagine a 20 ft grady needs...

You can't wrap around edges. Period If you cut to the corners you might as well throw the boat in the dumpster.

It works. Use it. Thats what its there for. Don't overthink it. Switching between 1 & 2 is stupid. I had twin ox66. Ran both aux chargining leads to a House bank. Worked perfectly for years. I have Zukes now. Same thing. Its just a diode connected to the same wire that goes to the main...

its a Catch22. You have to open it up to really know if you actually needed to open it up. With the outer skin off, you'll have a good look at the stringer attach points.

that seadog looks like a pretty close replacement and it is LED and red/off/white.

this is an on/off for the spreader look for Perko 0701DP Push Button Switch The three wire on/off/on for the RED/off/White seems to be hard to find or a ridiculous price

generally speaking Grady run a pvc tube down the starboard side from helm to battery compartment. If you get your model/year manual from gradywhite.com it will show layout of tubes.