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It looks like Lewis has you covered - along with a nicer-than-original homemade backer plate. But if you end up still needing something, these are NOT a Grady thing - they are a dime-a-dozen piece available anywhere. It's called a "bow eye".

In some other thread, we were talking about a more secure way to get to the bow - or at least to "feel" more secure by having a higher railing. One idea I mentioned was to take some rail pieces and attach them vertically to the existing stanchions - you'd likely want them to extend to near the...

Although a windlass is not used to ACTUALLY anchor (use the cleats), you would still need to heavily reinforce/modify the hatch to support the load on the windlass. You might do better by removing the hatch and replacing it with something else that then gets permanently installed. Do you have...

In your other post about this it was noted that you really only need the right roller. Did you decide against that route? It's going to be a lot more expensive going the route you are talking about, now. For example, isn't your top railing all one piece? You can't just replace the little bow...

"Agree on that premise"... Yes, agree. Typically what happens is the lesser charged battery will take most of the charging current. So what happens is once the two batteries equalize, the charging current bounces back and forth between the two... give or take. Regarding your concern about...

Yes. I would never recommend something that wasn't at least "good". I have one, as well. A full-on custom top would of course be nicer, but they're actually pretty nice. They've been doing this for decades so they're well established - especially here on the mid-east coast. The "tower in a...

Atlantic Towers will have a couple options - fair prices, too.

:) The combined V of the two batteries will be somewhere in the middle. I honestly don't know if we can simply state the V would be dead in the middle given there are other factors at play here regarding health of a battery (you eliminated type and age as variables). BUT, I've also never...

The ACR wiring is pretty straight forward... probably a whole bunch easier because you don't have to snake the 2nd charging wire through the rigging tube! But either way is perfectly good. Seasick... can you expand on your concern? I think there must be more to your reason for saying that...

Does this area have a separate piece that is just screwed down? It may be possible to get the piece from your dealer. However, if done right, adding a nice access hatch for increased storage is likely only to be seen as a plus in the eyes of a buyer.

Open the existing plate and inspect the underside of the deck. Make sure you don't cut any structural supports (if any). Stay at least a few inches away from edges and, ideally, cut your corners round not sharp. That's easy to do with a drill bit. There are lots of easily found options out...

You may need to cut the access hole bigger to allow for inserting a backer plate, depending on how thick the glass is in that area.

Interesting. OK, so it sounds like they used the panels to "box" the area to make it look better, rather than follow the contours of the glass? OK, so I'm not there looking at your boat, but I work on a lot of them. With what you are saying... -- First, if the panel is thick enough, even...

Call Dometic (SeaStar) directly with that picture ready to email. They have unbelievably excellent customer service. They tell you exactly what you need. But... where is the leak? Can you just tighten connections? On mine, I just tightened the screw-on connections and the leak went away.

Is it possible that it is not what you are thinking? Meaning, in many boats, area like this do not have a "panel"... instead the carpet is simply glued to the fiberglass. Either way, it's kind of a moot point, isn't it? IF it is a panel (I still don't think it is), drill through that, as well.

Have you physically verified that the trim tabs are fully retracted and operate normally?

Not screws, though. As we talked about originally, they will be thru-bolted. So you'd be removing a nut. Thanks for the follow up, though!

Muffin, yes, as indicated, it's inappropriate to post into someone else's post to ask your own question - it's seen as rude. That is why you should start your own thread. Your pic actually shows up now, instead of link. As Skunk mentioned, you have to pull it out to check it. Let's save...

Muffin - you should start your own thread on this. You don't want to be labelled a "hi-jacker" :) Also... most of us won't click on an unknown link from a realtively new member. Better safe than sorry, you know?

Steve/Seasick... what size was your plastic tank? I "thought" these boats had a pretty large tank which is typically aluminum. But that said, now that I think about it, my last Sea Ray had an 84g gallon tank and it was plastic. So I guess I could be wrong! :)