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Just make sure you get a name brand gas spring - otherwise you'll be replacing pretty soon. Amazon is a "who knows" kind of thing. You might pay a couple bucks more, but it might a good idea to get them from a local marine store. BUT... if you install them, you'll also want to install latches...

Brand... OK. Is there something different about whatever this is that makes it different (mounting-wise) from other light bars? Hard to say, from our end, without a picture. Installing on the front or the rear? Need that info, too. Answers will vary based on that (see directly above for a...

A wooden light bar? But as far as installing whatever that is, the Grady model really doesn't come into play. Where do you want to put it? It's really just a matter of knowing that and then making it happen. Every install may be slightly different based on what you have and how you want it...

Sure! A little bit of dish soap helps it go on even easier. Dipping it in hot water or a heat gun helps, too.

Oh... Shields make a HD sanitation hose that is reinforced - it is white, smooth-walled, and much easier to deal with. While I'm not 100% sure if it's officially rated for below the waterline, it is easily as good as the black stuff. I've worked around this stuff for a couple decades and it is...

Welcome to Boat Mechanics 101 :) If the hole will allow (depending on the size of the cooler drain flange, you could slip the hose onto the fitting above decks, push the hose through, then do the clamp... with one hand and blind! Tip - tighten the band in an easy to access spot to where it's...

That is stupidly ridiculous... and I'm jealous ;)

Yeah, it's close enough that I wouldn't even think of using something else. Ncuke... while you're at it, check out the condition of the thru-hull - especially if it's plastic.

But to respond to your question about damage... I don't see how you have to worry, at all, about the docks. They're floating docks so they'll go with the boat - the boat won't contact the docks if you use your dock lines properly. The only thing of worry is if there are any rocks in that mud -...

I'm a little further North from you - midcoast Maine, but... Maybe I'm not seeing things right, but are you sure your boat will ONLY be dry for 2 hours? And by dry, I mean NOT floating. Looking at the picture, it sure looks like it will be not floating for more than 2 hours. Once the water...

No, it's not pre-molded - you just make it fit the way you want it to go. It'll work :) You need to use hose that is approved for "below the waterline" use.

Going solely off what he has written, it seems like a vent for the head system.

You can measure on the outside of the engine for the shaft length. But... how does the anti-ventilation plate compare to the hull bottom? Put a straight edge on the hull. FYI, you're most likely experiencing ventilation, not cavitation. They're actually two entirely different things. If...

What else is connected to that battery that could be drawing it down? "Normal" electronics shouldn't be doing that in 2 hours. Fully charge and load test the battery - don't assume it's good.

How does the general location of the panel compare to the location of the fitting? Is this your only option?

At 3 decades old, the answer could be who knows what. Forget about what may/may not have been there 30 years ago - focus on what is there now. Follow the fuel line from the tank to the carb - if it's there, you'll see it. It could be on a bracket on the engine or a stand-a-lone FWS. If not...

Soft Scrub... "with bleach"? :)

I wouldn't be worried about seals, either. BUT, what specific seals are you referring to? Explain what you mean by "fogging"... often, you don't do the 'ol fashioned fogging with fuel injected engines. Instead, you can run a special cocktail mixture of fuel through. In my opinion, forget...

-- If you're happy with the way it is then just leave it? -- Add a larger, opening hatch (than the pie plate) and screw the hatch down -- Put hinges on one side of the hatch and make it an opening hatch. Hinges (or piano hinge) will secure it better, along with a flush latch. ---- You could...

No, you can buy a 1lb block of it from a craft store... probably online, as well. I still have over 1/2 of a 1lb block that I bought nearly 20 years ago for about $10. I cut it into a cube of about 1" for easy handling and toss it in a ziploc in my toolbox. I use it on snaps, too. It takes...