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It really comes down the bank, Wreck, whether or not they will finance a boat based on the model year. Not all banks use the same rules. Plus. there are other options for financing besides marine lenders.

Zippers are definitely a PM thing that we (including me!) often don't realize we need until after we realize we need it... did I say that right? :p Personally, I like beeswax as it goes on dry so there's no chance of attracting dirt. But lube is good, too.

Copper can last a long, long, long time. Long time. The only way to tell if replacement is needed to get eyes on them. Otherwise, if it's going to keep you up at night... go ahead and replace.

How do they look? Anything of concern?

Agree - all of the posts are exactly the same. I clicked "report" for someone smarter than me to check into it :)

Yes, hard to tell front from back... can we assume the fuel sender is the aft end? Can you use the fuel sender hole as a handgrip and lift up? The pictures make it look like there is enough room between the tank and the aft bulkhead to do that.

Interesting. I've used this method for decades (around the boat and the house) on caulk, gelcoat, vinyl (not stitching) and have never had any issues. To be clear - I'm not knocking anyone for the recommendation or the OP for trying something else. I was just curious.

Not for nothing, but bleach is nearly free and is safe on what you're using it for. Just curious, why not try it?

Gloves can only help. I don't use gloves - just pliers - and, yes, I'm careful with the boot. Most of the time, though, I use plug pliers.

Don't use your hands :) You should be protected enough by the boot but as things get older there are instances of leakage. Using a pair of pliers with a rubber grip should be enough. You can get plug boot pliers if you want to get fancy. Don't put your other hand on any metal part of the...

Of course! :) Couple other thoughts... spark. Check your wires... pull the plugs and "read" them.

Nothing strange about the stbd engine running well off "tank 1" and port does not when using "tank 1". That just means that the vent system (one of the variables at play) is fine. It's not clear... does the vibe happen at all RPM's under load? Put a fuel pressure gauge on there and monitor...

The problem is that it's dug in deep. Try misting some water/bleach/a few drops of dish soap on it. Keep it moist. Let it set for a while. About 10:1 water:bleach is fine. Another option is to saturate paper towels with water:bleach and let that set for a while. Chances are it will work if...

If the fiberglass isn't too thick, you can just glue them on the back side like I did - Nd are very strong - and you pick and choose the strength you want. I suspect you would need more than 4... but it's easy enough to add more if 4 doesn't work as well as you like.

Wade, can I make a suggestion? This is not a knock on anyone here providing info, but when it comes to exact measurements like this... what if they're wrong? It'd probably be worth it to take a couple hours to find out for SURE that you get the exact measurements you're looking for...

Oh, OK. Then it's essentially the same thing as you being in a slip. If you're happy with how the interior has faired with your current plan of attack, which it seems like you are otherwise this would be differently titled thread, then I would just keep doing what you're doing. No need to...

Dry rack as in "under cover" and out of the elements? Dry rack can mean outside in the weather, too... the boat is "high and dry in a rack". Assuming the former, it can't hurt to leave things a bit open since you have that luxury of no weather on the boat.

I did something kind of similar on one my previous boats with the cockpit entry door - not huge, but about 2-1/2' high by 18" wide. Normally, it was held "open" with a nylon strap and a snap. But it was never "tight" so it still jiggled. I bought Nd magnets from K&J online. I drilled a hole...

When you checked them... how thorough? They need to be pulled off, played with a bit to see the strands, etc. Then clean and re-tighten. Need to check ALL grounds - and you need to check more than just at the battery. Battery switch... just bypass it.

Also, closely inspect the connections - really close. A multimeter is good, but it doesn't tell you if enough amperage is flowing through. A single strand of copper wire will easily show 12.9V... but that won't be anywhere enough to actually run things. But based on what you've written, as...