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Ah, thanks for the pictures. That helps clear up what you meant by "straps". The plexi would actually be more helpful mounted UNDER the deck/hatch as that's where the reinforcement is actually needed. But if you reinforced the thru-bolts of the plexi with extra large washers, that will be...

I have no personal experience with this, but thinking a little differently... what would the downside be to fitting some foamboard insulation panels on the inside of the box and the lid? Seems like that would be quite easy/inexpensive to do and also be quite effective?

The questions to figure out... and you should be able to check on this by inspecting your boat... Based on all other ski pylons I have ever seen, there is reinforcing built into to both the top and lower mounting locations. Does your boat have that already? This is a VERY serious thing - if...

I think that's a great idea to add sacrificial Al strips. Otherwise, I would use fiberglass stock strips as plastic/HDPE is likely to eventually break free from its glue bond. Fiberglass stock is easy to source - for example, look at McMaster Carr online. I've always questioned the need...

As long as it's a decent paint, it will be totally fine.

Good idea - play around with it to get a comfort level.

That piece is called the "spider". You just need to measure your seat post OD and get a matching spider.

Already answered that above, along with where the tape goes :) As mentioned a couple times... and evidenced by many, many boaters... you really can go without any cover. It's done ALL the time. But... here's a better long term solution for you than what we're discussing.. -- Extend the...

Plastic is plastic, so yes, painting with a plastic rated paint would do it. Like you alluded to, though, it´s all about the prep work. Here´s a neat thing, though... you only have to use ¨paint for plastic¨ as a base layer (such as Rustoleum or Krylon rattle can). Then you top coat it with...

No to belabor this, but it's not clear if you reinforced as I described above... or if the straps are only in contact with the actual hatch. Under light load conditions, it'll work just fine without doing what I mentioned - but with a heavy pull, I'd be really worried that it could pull the...

Although it's completely a "no big deal" to cut a cord off and hardwire it, that's (above) not a bad way to go, either, since it's an OB powered boat. If it was a sterndrive or inboard it would be a no-no. Use a small amount of Tef-Gel on the contacts and wrap the connection in electrical tape.

How much did you grind the bronze tube? That's very thin metal - there's not much to grind... which means you may very soon compromise your transom wood core. Be careful. - Get an extra plastic ring and use that against the boat, first. - Shim it out with washers or nuts and fill the space...

Buying a boat just to get the hardtop seems like a lot of work... time/gas/etc to go get it... title/registration transfer (and more money)... then dealing with a used top that may/may not actually be good (won't really know till you travel how-many-thousands-of-miles)... then sitting on two...

I'm a huge fan of the Pro Mariner stuff - I have tons of experience with them (especially the ProNautic stuff)... literally hundreds with the boats I see in the shop. Excellent stuff. Go to Marinco's webiste and look at their AC inlets. They have two different styles - one to hold a cord, the...

Like Skunk said. You don't really need it to be manually tripable since it's wired downstream of your battery switch, right? The switch turns the whole circuit off and then you have either fuses or breakers for each individual sub circuit. The Blue Seas resettable breakers that Skunk...

The anchor is fine - as long as it will fit nicely in the roller. I was making a joke about the upside down part :) But what I meant is that that is not how an anchor will naturally come up into the roller. The flukes will swing the other way as the shank comes over the roller. WHAT...

Did you buy that anchor on sale? They sold you a blem... it was made upside down by mistake... ;)

Other than getting a new panel to cover that big hole... a piece of 1/4" black HDPE will cover it up and allow you mount something smaller.

Nothing in what you wrote leads me to think the battery cables are the issue. Besides, the smaller cables would be the ones to heat up. Inspect the connections on the solenoid/relay. Check the other ends of the wires there. Try jumping the solenoid with power to see if that makes the engine...

Some manufacturers skimp out on the little bit of material... that's too bad GW is one of them! :confused: That said, I would just go without it. As mentioned above, trailering without any cover is a very normal occurence and a windshield issue is extremely EXTREMELY rare. In all the times...