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The pumps should be mounted as low as possible, you can mount 1 switch higher than the other. When I bought a new bilge pump I went with the biggest pump with the same size hose (2000).

I have carb'd 200's, HPDI's don't have any more power, they're just more efficient. If they had carbed 200's that dogged, something was wrong. They have the same displacement but the angle of the V changed with the OX series(90 vs 76). Unless Evinrude changed things, the 200 HO is based on...

I can see locking the capt's chair but when trolling the port chair is usually facing the capt or aft to see the spread.

$1200 isn't too bad for a 2000, last time I checked the 1K's were close to $900.

10 gallons of water from the o-ring? If you never used it and left the top lose maybe. Any chance of water from Sandy? I had both vents knocked off and I'm hoping there isn't too much water in the tanks.

Personally I'd take the shaft out and have a handle welded on the end.

What year Sailfish? The early had a nameplate of 400 max. Also which 200 vs 225? The old Yami 6 cyl 4 strokes (200 & 225) were very boisterous in their ratings. The 225 was a little over 200 and the 200 wasn't anywhere near 200. The late 90's Sailfish weigh more and have more running area...

I'm getting 1.4- 1.6 for average trips. If it's really rough I'm down to maybe 1. '91 Sailfish carbed 200's

I assumed he meant that but if it wasn't changed, then yea that's most likely the problem.

That's a lot of corrosion for a relatively new motor. It indeed looks as if you need to replace the cover but be careful you don't snap any bolts taking the cover off.

Be sure the line isn't pinched anywhere, I had the line pinched and it was enough to stop flow to the main tank. Next if you're sure the pump is pumping, disconnect the closest connection to the pump and check for flow then work your way to the motor.

I cut a 1 1/2" wood dowel about 4" long and put it equally in both hoses and screwed the hose to the dowel. The next step is a royal PIA but you have to pull the hose through the sealed holes in the stringers. You can reach the aux tank fill without drilling an access hole but doing the main...

When I get some water in the forward bilge I take her out and trim the motors way high and let the water drain to the aft bilge to get pumped out.

Did you check to see if you have water in the separators? The Yamaha filters have to be dumped in a clear container to see what's inside, if you changed to the clear bowl Racors you can see if there is water in the bottom (and drain a little out). Just changing them doesn't tell you anything...

^ ding ding ding The shift linkage is splined, the only thing you have to watch is the 1/4" tube for the speed.

You probably have the same valves as I do. The pointer of the valve points to the tank being used, not the handle. If you don't notice the pointer you may be on the opposite tank. Do you see/find water in the separator? Did you have any issues from Sandy? I can run my main tank way down but...

To rule out a low pressure pump, have someone squeeze the primer bulb and see if the power comes back.

It's on the "hot" side so you don't have a live wire sitting out there looking for a return path (short to ground, the device or a combination including you). Unless there was another current path, the device sees all the current it would take to blow the fuse. If you don't complete the...

Fuses don't care which way the current is going so they will do what they can. Try changing some wires and fuses but if you have to hire someone you'll be spending more than the motor's worth.

Just because it's wood free construction it doesn't mean you don't have to worry about water intrusion. Water getting in the core whether it's wood or composite will wreck havoc.