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“It would be interesting to know what percentage of rotted transoms are on boats with transom mounted engines, and bang plates, compared to boats with brackets and full transoms.” Great question.

Thanks for all the great feedback. Has anyone heard of any Greenwood transom issues?

My owner‘s manual states the 5 year hull warranty is transferable, but no mention of the lifetime Wood warranty. I believe the wood warranty was only stated in the sales brochure published at time the boat was produced.

I believe the "Lifetime warranty" on the Greenwood XL wood is only on the wood itself and warranted through Greenwood and does not include labor nor other materials. Hopefully, GW would kick in.

I've owned two Grady's that needed transom rebuilds in the past. One was a 1984 model that was purchased new and a 1996 purchased used when only a year old and both were well maintained and cared for. I believe GW switched to a non-rot wood in 1998 or thereabouts and eventually to a composite...

Rather than trying to repair small dings and paint chips, I'd like to put a similar product on my GW factory installed Armstrong bracket/platform made of aluminum, but concerned that it could hold moisture underneath it allowing the aluminum to corrode.

I wouldn't want to be in 6-10 foot seas in a 22.

On older models, I'd echo the transom issues. Also, the nylon through hull fittings crack and if not already replaced, will need replacing. Some aren't easy to access.

To get to the underside of my Freedom 225, I’d have to remove the headliner in the head compartmeant, which I‘d prefer not to Do. The heat shrinked connectors should come through on the outside, especially if you can get them through one at time.

Keep pulling. There should be enough excess wire in there to pull the connection out to reconnect.

10 years ago, I sold my 232 with a hardtop and wanted a similarly sized Tournament/Freedom, but really wanted a hardtop. GW didn't offer a hardtop on a 225, but when searching dealer inventories online, I noticed my local dealer had a 225 with a hardtop they had added. That prompted me to buy...

I did the same thing this past weekend. When opening Yamaha fuel additive to pour into fuel filler, the cardboard disc inside the plastic cap fell into filler. Not sure the fuel line is large enough for the disk to be sucked up into it, but if so, hoping it might drop into water separator.

I've had good luck with this: http://www.starbrite.com/item/rub-rail-restorer-with-ptef

My bracket’s threads are not tapered so I haven’t seen one other than a PVC one that fits. As info, my Grady factory bracket I believe is made by Armstrong.

I believe that is the same arrangement as my 1984 204.

I just used a PVC plug from hardware store. Seems to work OK.

Get some Soft Scrub with bleach and squirt a line of product over all of the caulking and let it sit for 24-36 hours. Hose it off and most of the mildew should be gone. Works well.

My 225's bracket/platform has a plastic plug with a 9/16" size square fitting. I've used sealing tape and tried silicone, but invariably, its still leaks, but never have I ever drained anywhere near 30 gallons out. When in the water or on my JetDock, I've found it much easier to remove the round...

Fishtales, what year model is your boat?

Went ahead and ordered a new Ongaro. They make two different ones, one with higher stainless content. I ordered the better one. Before installing, I'll try the remedies suggested. Thanks for all the feedback.