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Are you saying that to get a good result from a pourable you have to remove one of the skins to clean out the old wood and then build a new skin, and then pour? Wouldn't that negate any advantage of using a pourable? I mean, if I'm going through the trouble to remove part of the cap and motor...

That looks great, I may have to upgrade.... lol

I gave up trying to find a correct replacement so I took a tennis ball and cut it in half and stuffed it in. Looks... but everyone who sees it laughs so I got that going for me.

Another one of the first things to check is how deep the lower unit is when on plane. The anti-ventilation plate should be just skimming across the top of the water. And is the boat slipped? If so what is the condition of the bottom paint and is the bottom clean.

Great color! More fenders!!!

My 208 does the same thing. I figure its the two batteries in the starboard corner plus me at the helm. A quick touch of the tab and all is good. I will say this though, a 93 208 is tender. In other words it's super easy to get it less than level. Wind, seas, weight, it'll lean.

There are two switches iirc. Neutral safety switch in the control box and a shift position switch by the shift cable in the engine pan. Again, by memory, definitely check the shop manual

That's great news. Something as easy as a coil on an HPDI is a win in my book

Sorry you are going through this but as said it will be worth it when it's done.

And I cannot stress it enough. Please verify that every ground on that motor is clean and tight. Saltwater motors are notorious for corrosion and a slightly bad ground on one of the coils will have you chasing your tail. Also I would carefully pull apart every plug on the motor as well...

post # 18, yes I hope you were in neutral as the 2-3 were not firing. I don't believe 875 is too high in neutral in the water because it will drop some in gear. You said you did a sync and link? Is important on that motor as well. Timing. It doesn't seem like 14 vs 17 btdc would matter until...

Just to verify it's not fuel line related you might try swapping hoses. Unless I missed it you might consider checking/adjusting your crank position sensor which is what regulates timing on that motor. The good motor is at 19 btdc which is the correct spec. I gave the new owner the factory...

My recollection is Grady went to poly in the 208 in 1998 or 1999 but I wouldn't bet much money on it. Hopefully the OP clues us in as to what his has.

Old tank coming out. Hopefully yours doesn't look like this...

Pic of the tank going in. Can barely make out the hole for the deck plate I installed in that bulkhead. No water tank in mine so no bulkhead directly behind fuel tank.

marki55e when I replaced the fuel tank 2 years ago in my 1993 208 I removed that large deck hatch and then the tank. Just forward of the fuel tank is the bulkhead that makes up the rear of that empty space you are talking about. I cut a 6" hole in the rear of that bulkhead to see the size of...

A good brush and handle is a must. That one looks nice. To add, Bar Keepers Friend is great at getting blood or leaf stains off non skid areas without scratching.

Good call. I am on Xarelto due to a PE. Blood thinners are aggravating.

To me when looking at an old boat the hull is secondary to the motors. Two motors to push that hull are 30-40 grand. The propulsion is where the money is at because without decent motors you do not want to be going even 10 miles offshore. Get the motors checked out before you even bother with...

Best of luck!