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the SS portion is part of the thru hull, & is holding the drain hose in place, you're not getting that off. Find a Ball Scupper that'll fit over the SS.

When you attached your stringers back to the new transom, did you add any additional 'knee' supports? This is definitely recommended since you'll have a bracket putting extra stresses on the transom.

I think yours is the same as my 1990 242g (factory bracket). Remove the lid hinge screws, then the live well liner is removed by taking out the 6 screws along the top after you reach thru the rear port side seat hatch & disconnect the drain hose & filler. Thats when the fun begins, dive in...

wow - I thought you meant your boat was on the boat trailer fenders, gotta zoom in on the pic to see what you meant - that looks sketchy, I'd be worried. How'd they even get it up there? At the very least they could put something between the boat trlr axles or boat trlr frame & the transport...

the two most popular brands - RULE and Johnson - both make quality products, don't skimp here do it once & done. Do you know if you've got a separate float switch, or is it built in with the existing pump? Don't get a 24 volt pump (rare) if yours is setup for 12v. Easiest thing to do, if you've...

might as well put a new sending unit in the tank while you're in there. the switches on my 1990 242 are top row port to strbrd wiper, FWD Bilge, Navigation/Anchor, Cockpit Light, Horn bottom row port to strbrd Fuel, AFT Bilge, Aerator/Washdown, Accessory, Accessory

very nice

Had the same problem, I put these over the cockpit drains - didn't screw them down just a dab of silicone so I could pull them up if I wanted. they do slow drainage a bit. They were the thinnest I could find but still don't sit completely flush...

was the foam dry when you took it off? if so then go for it. me personally i've never liked trapping foam where it can soak up water, there are other ways to keep the water displaced. Ping Pong balls have been used in the past but you'll need a lot of 'em for that bracket.

thats true about the older hulls - they made the change to the new Sea V2 hull around 1992, a little heavier & deeper v boat. My 242g is also a 1990, I'm at least the 3rd owner. Pretty sure my 1996 Johnson has a lot of hours on it but can't say for sure, still runs good for a smoky noisy 2 stroke.

would definitely go for a sea trial before buying, if it's a healthy engine & propped right it might do OK, but if you're going to be running loaded up & in decent seas seems like more power is going to be the ticket. I've got a 242g, hardtop, with an old 2 stroke 225 on a bracket, it does OK...

deck of a 1990 Offshore, if you're going to use toggle bolts thru the fuel tank cover might want to make sure you miss the 2x4's.

per the grady white website owners manual - scroll down to page 70 - there are two pvc drains going thru the rear bulkhead that separates the rear fuel tank compartment from the bilge. with your head in the bilge looking forward, the pvc drain on the port side runs continuously to the front...

just thought I'd throw this out there - if you've got an older Grady & haven't replaced the factory 40A breaker at the transom you might want to move that to the top of your list. Mine is a 1990 242g, everything worked fine & the breaker really didn't look bad from the front. Swapped it out...

bottom paint with a dose of crust, nasty stuff the ice pick barely gets it out.

Sounds crazy I know, I'll do some more scraping on the fasteners, just can't believe that if they were screws that every one of them on both tabs is perfectly crusted over in the shape of a dome & looking exactly like a rivet head. If they are screws they're so far gone they'll need their heads...

whats the best way to remove the factor trim tabs? Just picked up a 1990 242g with tabs, the hinge on the transom appears to be riveted onto the transom, not screw heads, and no way to get to the backside of whatever is being used to hold these on as the battery trays inside the bilge...