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I would imagine that the stringers from midships forward were checked and deemed good when fuel cell was replaced, so you'll only need to concern yourself checking from transom forward. Surprisingly to me, once I removed inside section of aft splash area, and bad transom core material, stringers...

Sounds like a lot of work and/or money. I'm not sure of the age and model of Grady you have, but if I were you I would check out value of boat after all this work is complete. If you are handy at doing your own work and enjoy that, then it won't be so bad as far as money, but I would bet you...

The tubes I replaced on cockpit overboard drains were originally brass also. I know on the four 80s-90s Gradys I've owned, all had brass tubes in them. I would be nervous having plastic ones, but I guess if they are original equipment on some boats they may be ok. The boat in pics did have...

Regarding cockpit drain tubes, I would stay with the brass ones, as opposed to plastic. I would definitely replace any cracked or leaking ones asap, because they are a prime source of introducing water into the transom core. Upon removing old ones you will be able to determine condition of core...

I know how you feel, but it's not the end of the world. I found similar core damage on a 22' Seafarer I had before boat I have now. I thoroughly researched my choices and decided to do the rebuild myself. At that time prices I got regarding having it repaired were in the 5-6000 range, and that...

If the screw you removed where the water started coming out was less than approximately 1" from bottom of outside transom, it could very well be that this screw was not into the core of the transom. When transoms are built there is normally a 1/4"-1/2" void left around perimeter of core...

I did a complete transom rebuild on a mid-80s Grady Seafarer a few backs. I documented the whole thing on a boat builders forum that helped give me advise on the correct way to go about it. http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=19949. It was a LOT of work, and surely not for everyone...

I no longer have the Seafarer I replaced the drains on, and Offshore model I have now is a different setup. One more item you may want to buy is some epoxy-like paste, incase after removing old brass tubes you discover some bad core surrounding opening. I'm fairly certain you probably will, so...

Nice work! :goodjob

Re: Offshore Rear Drains You're right to want to keep those drain tubes sealed up, because if they leak or water seeps around edges, it will eventually start deteriorating your transom core. On a previous GW Seafarer I replaced transom core on, I found bad core wood all around those tubes, and...

I'll be doing my 24' offshore pretty soon and will make a paper tracing for anyone that may need it.

I removed and replaced my cabin bulkhead material on my previous Grady Seafarer, and will do the same with the Offshore model I have now. Actually was not that difficult. Removed bad pieces and traced them on new material, coated with epoxy, especially edges, and topcoated with spar varnish. I...

Switching to 19s would appear to be a good choice for you. Here is a prop calculator you can check into. http://boatpropellers.iboats.com/=?cm_r ... 838511-_-b

I always shut down for drifting offshore. I do keep engine(s) batteries, etc in top shape, or won't go.

Change seats, leave pedestal.

I've never heard of it, and would really doubt that it is a cure to water damaged stringers or transom. I do recall a product called "gitrot" that you would drill a hole in surface and inject it into core. It wasn't very good either. Keep in mind, if you have compromised stringers and go out in...

Keep a close eye on that molding and be sure it is always sealed completely, including the screw holes. Keeping water out from under there is probably the most important step you can take in preserving the integrity of a Grady hull.