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If you make sure all you screws into the transom and deck area are properly sealed with resin and caulk your core should be fine for many years to come. Electrical wiring should be good for 20 years plus...just spray down open contacts every season to keep exposed connectors in check...

type A1 and use double SS clamps http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?pa ... &id=315125

And if you go with plastic they are not that much cheaper (for a given size) and you have different installation rules...they can't be foamed in and you must allow for breathability of the tank (permeation).....so you need to somehow vent the tank storage compartment so fumes never build up in...

Marine Plywood is a very generic term these days.....I agree, the good stuff will be over $100 at a local lumber yard....I think I paid $140 for a sheet locally that I needed bad and couldn't wait....but if you need a bunch of sheets like 6 or 8 and you need some foam sheets like Coosa or...

Full main tank definitely makes a difference....the area under the main tank is where you will feel it most......and so does the proper use of your trim tabs......that hull likes to cruise in the 25-30 mph range.......you push it above that in a head sea and you will feel the hull slap a little...

A little more for that hull NEM.....5 gal resin just for gluing the 3 layers of ply...its almost 9 feet wide...plus fillets, plus 5 layers of glass, 1 inside skin, 4 outside skin....so about 15 yards, plus a couple rolls of 6 inch tape and about 10-12 gal resin....youre in for $1500 to start...

Coosa 26 if you have the $$$$ ......3/4 inch is about $200 a sheet vs $100 for good marine ply like Meranti..vs $60 or 70 for normal Doug Fir marine ply...all will work if done right

The open transom makes the core replacement easier than a closed transom with a bracket....Vero Wing did a replacement on his Seafarer...I think he posted his rebuild on here, but its also listed on Boat Builder Central web site...there's a ink in the how to section. If you do it yourself it...

what else you have under there? you want to stay away from other thru hulls/pick ups etc and as close to flat/cl as possible.

And can lead to rotten stringers as well......the tanks will probably be due for replacement....thats $2000 right there for a 75 and 125 tank install....you will get a good look at the stringers when you yank those out...but this would be the same problem you would see for any boat of this...

Something doesn't sound right with going straight to IP2000 after sanding....you need to etch the aluminum....if they don't sell or use the vinylux etching primer anymore, I would still prep right after sanding/blasting with West's aluma-prep before putting down IP2000.......also, not sure why...

And if you use wood, definitely go with epoxy....use slow hardener for extra working time and no amine blush.....any good name brand will work..West, Mas, System 3 etc.....check around for pricing...I like Defender Marine industries for pricing....some guys use Marine epoxy from boat builder...

Lots of choices, including a new bracket.....but if 3800 is too much, you can strip and repaint which is cheapest, or powdercoat...but not sure how well the bottom half sitting in water will hold up with powdercoat. To bond right in either case, you have to get down to bare metal.....sand...

what about a rectangular cover/hatch for more room?

OK..so did you restore her? What do you have for power? Any performance numbers?

you went from a 225 to a 300? how do you like the extra power? did your cruise speed change? hows the fuel consumption with the etec?

100 miles offshore in the Pacific NW with a 22 footer? A bit more than I could chew....I would want 25 feet minimum in those waters.... as far as what to look for...if you don't want to deal with stringer, transom and fuel tank issues, find a boat less than 20 years old.....10-15 years max or...

the rear compartment looks like this.....see the main pvc drainruning fore and aft....but also see the little stubby that drains the compartment to the rear bilge....pretty useless though as it only on one side and water gets stuck on the other side of the main drain with nowhere to go...ends up...

A little of both...if you can judge the depth...but the epoxy/syringe method is the best.....not caulks .....if the holes get big enough, use wooden dowels plugged in ovesized holes and epoxy.....any name brand marine epoxy will work just fine......but follow the mix instructions to the fullest.

1 footers in 5-10 knots....and it took his fillings out........maybe he should stick to bass fishing on a lake... :wow