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Welcome aboard.......thats a hell of a trip through the calm and cozy LI Sound and all the way to NC...I personally would have towed it, but you learned alot about your boat doing it this way......congrats on the new ride :goodjob

Bob, the cabin floor is just like the deck..cored with the wood blocks.....if he took the exposed skin off the main stringer that you can access from the storage openings below, you may be able to bed new plywood to the other remaining skin, just like you would do a transom core...one side skin...

The part of tub that goes up and over the stringer is about an inch or so from the stringer itself.....you want to make the cut far enough past the stringer to allow you room for grinding and glassing, but, you want it close enough to the stringer so that you can lay the tub back on top and have...

I'm surprised the outer stringers going forward are shot as they are so high up above the keel near the chine....in any case, they normally end just a foot or two past the stairs, so you should be able to get to them from the storage hatch and what you already cut out.....but you won't be able...

Mike, I don't believe the stringers going through the cabin to the bow are actually gel coated....the gelcoated liner or tub that makes up the inside of the cabin actually rests on the wooden stringer grid. The grid is self standing/supporting.......so if you cut out a stringer, you can't bed it...

Yeah, I can't tell if its full wdith or not...that would mean the stringers are not one full length front to back...or they go through the BH..on my sailfish, the bulkhead did not go gunwale to gunwale...it stopped at the fish box which was right where the stringer went...I thought it would be...

When you say gone, do you mean you cut it away and just left the center section? On a Sailfish, there only is a center section bulkhead...the stringer grid makes up the rest on both sides going forward towards the bow. And on a Sailfish, there is no gelcoat on the opposite side, just...

Mike...post a pic of what youre looking at removing.....a bulkhead is no big deal...but you want to be strategic on where you cut

What Brian mentioned will work if you have some grid left up front and you have any markings at all on the hull....you can take measurments or snap a chaulk line .....based on your picture you still have tabbing left on the hull...thats all you need.....take a plumb bob and hang it under the...

Wow, now the fun really begins......grind the heck out of it all at once and get it over with....its gonna be nasty, but you'll be glad when thats all over........Tyvek suits, baby powder, face mask with P100 cartridges, goggles and ear muffs for the grinding wheel.....did you take all your...

Fog engines, change lower unit oil, clean and grease prop shaft, flush engines, fill tanks with fresh gas and marine stable as recommended, spray all contacts with WD type product, fully charge battery or leave on battery tender....or take inside if in freezing weather for the winter, add...

kiwigrip http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... d=kiwigrip http://boatbuildercentral.com/products.php?cat=62

I used a 4-1/2 inch and 7 inch electric angle grinder with 25 or 36 grit flapper wheels for the big stuff...then the smaller unit with 40 grit for smaller and hard to reach areas...the big unit is a little heavy and you need to make sure you're wearing gloves and are in control of the unit as...

I use the Trident Flex Marine wet exhaust water - reinforced hose..it takes a long time to rust out.....some use the white sanitary hose, but I don't trust it for scupper/deck drains...this other stuff is heavy duty.. I would start with the smallest hole possible to do the job...and if you need...

Does water bead up at all or clear out more quickly in that area vs others? Ever spray silicone around that area? Silicone can cling to a surface for a long time....even with solvents it just smears around but a light film still stays put....that would definitely create a no bond area....

Where are the batteries on that year/model Saifish? On the older models you have access by removing the batteries in the transom boxes and you can reach both sides of the hose......those hoses definitely rot out over time....you should get 10+ years out of the good ones, but I check mine every...

Thats coming out nice...

Mike, BBC is a great resource.....when it comes to the right plywood, Meranti bought from them or your local lumber yard should be the same ...just make sure its marked with the LLoyds rating and your good....I priced the same ply from BBC and local......BBC was 100....local was 125....just do...

You've got lots of nasty grinding still left to do on the hull, getting down to clean, smooth glass is a key for good bonding......but you've come a long way even with the time off :goodjob .....all that rotted stuff is gone...get a bunch of 25 or 40 grit discs and go nuts until the dirty work...

see if your dealer will refill your jugs from his bulk drum for a lower cost