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So, if you have your rope in the locker, you deploy the anchor under the rail and tie off to the cleat..you say you use the bow rail like a roller, and pull the line up and over the rail. Then what, you take all that line and put it back in the locker by going under the rail again?

Soi what then, do you have to feed everything under the bow rail again?

well, you are going to have to pay someone to recore it, or do it yourself. Probably around a grand to have someone do it.

hey Hookup1 I posted on the Grady owners page on FB about replacing my tank and hatch repair, you sent me here, would you be able to link me to your posts you told me about, thanks!

Mine is a 92 Explorer, outside under shrink with a door, in Conn. I will be pulling the soft tank hatch soon, and inspect. My heat is a heater buddy with an external tank.

you are so lucky to have your boat inside! How is your gas tank?

Now I am confused, how could they get soft if no coring? Are you positive? Fiberglass does not soften, but coring will.

You can use polyester resin which is much much cheaper and works just as well. Also, if you are doing the job, do a complete job, not partial, you will feel better in the long run. Use a multi-tool to cut the thin coring out. Use Youtube, you will learn quite a bit on proper techniques.

Yep, 5200 is permanent! Petit makes a product called Anchortec or something like that. It is very similar to 4200 and a lot cheaper

I don't understand how 5200 would have helped, but everyone enjoys 5200 .

You can argue all you want. Hopefully you didn't put 5200 on plastic thru hull fittings.

Join the club. Bad news is if one broke and the others are same age, you should replace all fittings and hoses. DO NOT downsize hose or anything else, DO NOT enlarge the hole in the hull. Install the thru hull and bed with 4200. Some people will argue 5200. The best hint I can give you is when...

Luthers Does a good job. They have the prints for Grady so you don't have to pull the tank first. You do want to barrier coat the tank, which they don't do, but some other manufacturers will, it's all about price. I would figure on a full day of labor. I would also question them as to how they...

Great advice, make sure you use epoxy resin and not polyester, to be fully waterproof. Maybe a Dremel with a cutoff blade to remove the old ones?

That bracket should have no water in it at all! there should be a gasket on the drain plug. Make sure the top inspection plate is well sealed also. As a matter of fact, check and reseal the entire bracket where it is attached to the boat.

I bet the hatch opposite the livewell looks the same! If you are handy and have the time and space, you can do the painful but easy enough to do. My hatches looked worse. You have to chip and clean down to "solid" fiberglass, probably use wet cloth on the inside, yes, fairing compound on the...

Luther's in Rhode Island, he will make a tank for you. Reputable and fair pricing. The gentleman's name is Bud http://www.lutherswelding.com/our-solutions/custom-marine-tanks

Sweet setup! I bet that platform let's you get at the motor even in the water.

Stupid question.. why do you want to add that much fresh water, and need that much from that little sink down below?

How does this answer the original question? He has a 95 Explorer and the livewell is behind the port seat. He asked how to fill it. I gave the answer...