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A retired buddy of mine worked in auto body shops and told me to use a sharpened stick ( beveled end) like a paint stirrer. Worked well for me and very little chance of scratching. Used with a little heat as well.

My First one was a 98 208 with a 150 carbed Yami. The motor was adequate and with a light load and got to about 40 mph. 3-4 guys with gear in the ocean would be a struggle in a head sea with wind. Other than that, get a mechanical survey for the Johnson. A compression test should tell a lot...

http://www.greatgrady.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16092&p=103735&hilit=Fish+box+lids#p103735 The problem with this is that the edge repair is too sharp. You need a very gradual (12 to1) span to thickness gradient for the new product to bind to the old.

I just repaired the edges on my fish box lids. It appears there was some moisture infiltration in your pics as well. Most recently I used a flapper wheel on a grinder and removed about 1/8 inch of material around the outside edges. Then I laminated glass cloth and resin to build the edges...

I have a Garmin 741xs and have only played with the demo in split screen but it is small. I use a dedicated GPS 8 inch screen. If I split it I feel it is too small for navigating, always zooming in and out. I have a Furuno 620 FCV color sonar (6 inch screen) unit I just removed and am selling...

Any chance you have a picture of this setup? I just can't see where you are positioning the pipe. Are you slicing it open and stretching it over the bunk?

Re: Trying to decide what path to take. Older Grady or New C For a piece of mind for a couple of hundred bucks that will be used to negotiate a price get a hull and power survey. A good tech can predict engine condition especially with the computerized diagnostics on modern two and four...

The baitwell is fed from a dedicated Rule baitwell pump in the bilge and enters the well on the side but close to the bottom. The drains are in the bottom which I plug and a second one about 10 inches off the bottom. When the pump is turned off, the well drains by gravity through the fill hose...

"Put a rubber plug in it. Done." I tried that but it pops out from the hydraulic pressure while under way and it is a pain to insert when we turn the pump off then reinsert (get up again Dave) when pump goes on. I would think the pump would have a check valve built in but apparently not...

I have a livewell on the port side behind the companion seat. (95 Islander). We use the well to store our catch and keep them alive until returning to dock. (Fluke, seabass). I have a baitwell pump connected and run it occasioally to fill with O2 water but it quickly drains out the fill tube...

Love it, but us northerners need more. Would like to see some catching video as well. It's too long a winter up here to be off the water.

I do not know for sure about the 741 keeping fuel data but the 4208 does. If it can store waypoints and tracks I would feel confident about it keeping fuel data.

I put mine behind the instrument cluster. Ran a 20 extension from the GFS to the T connector. Behind the instrument cluster. I don't think the Xducer connects to the NMEA system, mine has an 8 pin ducer cable that connects directly to the back of the 741. I do have a GPS X17 antenna on the...

Yes wou will be able to fish the wire/ connector through but I did not want to make that large of a hole in the tubing. (5/16 instead of 3/4 inches)

There is a field installed NMEA 2000 plug, i did not use one and I did cut the cable about 6 inches from the plug and fished the wire down from the ebox. After exiting the tube at the helm, i soldered, heat shrink and taped the splice. All has worked well for 6 years. I guess you could use...

I picked up the 741xs for $899 plus 12% rebate ( no x ducer) I looked at the 70dv but preferred the connectivity of the 741xs. Look at the ports on the back. NMEA 2000, NMEM 0183, radar, 12 pin and 8 pin sonar ports, data. I really like the two sonar ports and NMEA 2000 for fuel meters, ext...

$99 8 pin is CHIRP, downvu and traditional $199 is also chirp but only downvu and side view images. A traditional ducer would be required. $749. Stainless thru hull ducers (CHIRP, Downvu and traditional are not compatible as far as I can tell.

This is a downvu image i am hoping to achieve.

What about the down vu capability?

How is the cable routed through the transom? It looks like it is mounted on the lower part of the hull. I was real concerned about not getting it to work on this hull.