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We just had an f225 lower unit re-sealed and pressure tested, and ended up all-in somewhere between $500 and $650, I think. But that's without a water-pump service, and I had already removed the lower unit from the boat, and removed the thrust bearing from the propeller shaft. I think your...

So while it sounds like a tough situation, the last thing you want to do is rush things. That applies to both repairs to the boat, as well as jumping to conclusions. First things first; make sure you document what happened, how, when, and take pictures (for yourself, and your insurance...

I've ditched the AP11 (OEM) autopilot control head out of our 2002 282 Sailfish, and have been playing around with a wedge idea to orient the display a bit more towards the helm. What looks better? The seafoam/sort-of-matchy-matchy Grady White colored star-board under the black display unit...

There should be two, maybe 4, grommet holes in the bottom edge of the cushion. Each grommet hole in the bottom edge of the bolsters (all the way around, not just the back seat) typically have a phillips head screw hiding up in there that keeps the bolster in place. Once you remove the screws...

We're approaching our 4th season with our boat, a used 2002 282 sailfish with the F225 twins. 2-3ft closely spaced chop is difficult in most boats if you can't grin and bear it with the bow down and into the throttles a bit. I've found the boat can tolerate significantly more beating than my...

In our 282 Sailfish we get streaks up front depending on how wet the season is, and I'd agree with your guess that it's screws in the rub rail and/or bow rail assembly allowing some trace water through. Nothing on a boat is "permanently" sealed, especially with the beating these hulls can take...

Narragansett Bay is a big place. My brother in law has an older GW 21 cc, so my feedback is based on his boat as a template. I think you're going to feel fine in the 180 on most days in the middle to northern parts of the bay, and Providence River on most days. I think the 180, like the 21...

I went with an AFI product, AFI #33021S, which is a stainless steel frame and a blade proclaimed to be "marine" grade. I found this through Jamestown Distributors, after the other 20" non-marine prescribed replacement blade usually referenced through NAPA is no longer available (at least that I...

Couple of ideas for you, we've also battled intermittent low throttle stall on one of a pair of F225. On our 282 sailfish (2002 vintage), the anti-siphon valves were shot, so we replaced those (under the deck plate, there are 4 total, 2 on each tank). I thought potentially they could have been...

This from either an 05 or 06 282 Sailfish that we didn't buy . . . it was also a close match to the switch panel on our 2002 282 that I recently did the switch replacement on. I agree that the owners manual could have been far more specific with the switch layout. Also echo what others have...

Once you're fully broken in and you think you're turning the right screws, it would be interesting to see what your expected cruise and burn numbers would be, relative to the well known 282 on F225's numbers. Agree that 50+ knots sounds excessive in a 282! Is the 4900 RPM the ideal red line...

Knowing "how" it's put together and which way to push the wrench, and how hard you can push without breaking the part or the thru-hull is half the battle. I also did the upside-down monkey hang in the belly of our 282 Sailfish. Strap wrench was weapon of choice for the old pump removal, it's...

Scott, pretty trick looking upgrade, I've thought a little about going the 3 bank route in our 282 Sailfish. What are the outside dimensions of the new panel you're fitting into that space? Just wondering if the cutout is essentially the same size as the switch panel in our boat. Thanks! Bob.

Re: armrest covers, I've actually been strongly considering attempting a milled, solid wood armrest cover that would slide over and screw to the existing plastic grid-like armrest base. SWMBO is not convinced yet, so that's on hold. There's another tactic out there that includes a medium sized...

Re: Happy Holidays to all. This post is in regards to a 272 Repeated water in fuel isn't a luck thing . . . be sure to check the o-ring condition on your fuel filler caps. If there aren't o-rings on your caps (the way that my boat was when we took ownership), that's a primary source for water...

Re: Happy Holidays to all. This post is in regards to a 272 You got good responses on the other topics. Re: fuel tanks, I'd offer this: if your boat seems to have been kept up well by prior ownership, you can take a couple of steps to get a sense for what condition they're in. First the...

We had our pair done at $5500 at a dealer facilitating a boat sale, February 2015, south New Jersey. I'd suggest you shop prices a bit, I think people have seen this service for around $5k. Ultimately the kit of parts (including oil pump, which you should definitely replace at the same time)...

Yes you should be seeking the seller to compensate price by the cost to have the second exhaust mid-section repaired. We had the power heads pulled of a pair of 2002 four strokes pre-purchase as due diligence, and immediately had the work done once we had confirmed the power head was in sound...

Shout out to Marine Electronics of the Outer Banks, who specialize in repair and resale of earlier Simrad products, amongst other electronics. They took delivery of my AP11 control head, charged 2 hours at $95/hr to clean and repair buttons, bridged some other items they identified as potential...

On our 2002 282, it's about time we get after replacing the gunnel and transom bolsters, so that's focus number one. Couple of cushions will get minor repairs as well. Oil change, lower unit lube, engine flush and winterization is standard. Water pumps were done last year so we'll check the...