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Run dry? Here is a graphic depiction of what can happen ... although I do not vouch for the authenticity of the purported "torture test." http://www.brokeboats.com/drypump.html My personal experience (replacing impellers after one of my own boneheaded "run dry" mistakes) was that no...

Grady's explanation Here's what Grady has to say. http://www.gradywhite.com/grady-built/safe.php3

Aux tank switchover You might want to first examine your external Racor fuel filter and replace it if it is dirty. Then, you could put a couple of gallons of fuel in the auxiliary tank, disconnect its fuel line at a convenient point, and (using your primer bulb) pump some fuel into a bucket for...

I sent you a PM.

Search for my posts (Pez Vela) and look at the one titled "C120W fits old Sailfish." It will show you a picture of my C120W install. Let me know if you have any questions.

Your gauge, as shown in the picture, is not telling you that you are in a "level" running position. The gauge is telling you that you have trimmed the engine "up" about one-half of its trim range (more or less). Your engine appears to be in that position, so all is good. Normal running trim...

Could the alarm have been for low oil pressure at idle. I'd check the dipstick if you haven't already. Let us know if adding some oil takes care of it.

Have you had any luck contacting the registered owner? I bet he could clear this up ... or shed some light on the problem.

Take advantage of the water separation feature of your external Racor fuel filter. That's why you have one ... right? If not, now would be a good time to install one and learn how to take advantage of it. Your problem, minor as it is, will be solved.

Just like they were made for each other. [/img]

I made an emergency repair to one of those starboard side thru-hulls on my '87 255. I broke off the outer mushroom head during a "collision at sea." Since access for proper replacement was next to impossible as you describe, I bought another thru-hull with a smaller diameter tail piece, which I...

'86 Grady fuel lines The fumes are quite likely due to a fuel tank leak, and you are going to have to remove the tank(s) to properly access the fuel lines anyway, just like Grady told you. The hoses viewed from the head storage area are drainage lines, not fuel lines. In my experience...

O.K. now I get your question ... the flat surfaces at the bottom of the compartments were part of the original factory construction of the boat and were indeed "glassed-in" plywood boards ... providing a flat surface for the flat bottomed fuel tanks. Rubber strips were cemented to those. No...

This may help you understand the pictures. The "during" photo shows 2 comparments for the main and the auxiliary fuel tanks which are separated by a vertical plywood bulkhead. The "before" and "after" photos are both close-ups of the main tank only.

Well, I don't have pictures of the compartments immediately before the tanks were dropped in ... but rubber strips were cemented to the bottom of the compartment for the tanks to rest upon ... thereby preventing direct contact between the aluminum tank and the fiberglass bed. With the wood...

Framing your new tank The "clear" wood is simply painted (before installing) and fastened with screws. Rubber cement was then used to fasten the rubber strips to the wooden framework, creating a "perfect fit" between the framework and the fiberglass hatch. Before fastening the hatch over the...

Tank replacement Here are the "Before - During - After" images of a 1987 Grady Sailfish which may give you some ideas on how to button it up properly. Good luck!

Invaluable tool My struggles ended after I bought one of these. A bit pricey, but I'm glad I sprung for the big bucks. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... /21545/377 710 1301/0/Bimini & Cover Hardware/Primary Search/mode matchallpartial/0/0?N=377 710 1301&Ne=0&Ntt=Bimini & Cover...