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About 5 amps running. But they are small fridges and keeping it on 1 or 2 setting minimizes run time. I have not used it in summer yet, so not sure on cycling times yet. Killing a battery in an hour? Must be a serious fridge. They do need good ventilation where they are installed. It is helpful.

Oh, the ultra switches are known as being among the very best and well worth the extra money! Only reason I do not use them is they do not appear to be easy to test, from what I can see in the pictures available online. I emailed them with no answer. So, I stuck with what works for me for a few...

Pez, the clamp on is very useful. Good to turn things on and see actual current draw of your gadgets. I was surprised how little power DC the fridge uses. And yes, the rated alternator charge on motors is definitely not at idle speed. No need to run motors anyway all day long. You can bank on...

4 batteries. 1 pump on cranking 1, the other pump on house 1. That leaves 2 batteries in reserve at all times. I only have cranking batts now because they came with the boat. Temporary. Useless for when it counts. Reserve capacity is what will keep our boats on top of the water instead of...

Thanks Dennis. Yes, difficult to match a fitting that is 14 years old. LOL. A couple days and it will be forgotten about. Taking that picture reminded me of how many holes are in these fishy boats. Holes all over the place! Actually 1 by 1 I remove the caged switches. Do not care for them at...

Added my back up pump set up today, completely independent. Always have to have a back up venturing offshore.....and at the dock in our absence.

I shut them down and drift all day, with electronics on. When I go offshore I am sharking. If your battery management is good and you have spare batteries in reserve, why not?

8) Very nice.

Thanks. I did find them at delcity http://www.delcity.net/store/Euro!style ... s/p_796735 but they are 3 poles, not enough. It will be a dealer stop then. Thanks.

Definitely not logical Dennis. No one would guess that one. Who would hang a different size motor and not know it? People can see where the anti-ventilation plate is and know where it needs to be in relation to the hull, depending on setback, give or take. The issue is usually just being 1 or 2...

Looks like I have a couple that do not light up. Where do we get them? I never see this type in my usual catalogs. Model year vintage 2000.

Jackplate for a solution?

I really like that tilt out box rdstarok made. A perfect spot would be in front of the livewell on my 272.

The foils are usually better on the I/O's. It will not do anything to help you if the motor is too high. It will raise the stern faster, which would make the problem worse. The motor should be down when planing. That is right but you should not have to baby it in that position. I would lower it...

I just had to change my tank float switch also. Pricey float switch! You are changing your in tank macerator too? I am planning to do as most others do when it becomes problematic. Replace it with an external pump and diverter valve. I can see why the manufacturer's use the drop in kit...

I would fix that splice right. It will fail again and it will be on the wrong day, then you will be kicking yourself. Get yourself a heat gun, stripper, ratchet style crimper and a collection of butt splices and ring terminals. All with heat shrink/adhesive built in. Red, blue and yellow...

Good to go with the 18 and inline fuse.

The splice is a joint that could corrode and/or break off, sometimes hidden under that self fusing tape. I only use crimp connectors with built in heat shrink & built in adhesive. When I make a repair it never has to be done again.

Good going Steve! You found the open circuit. My thought is that it seems the berth is not the first stop, since the other lights did not work running your temporary wire. They all failed together, so they should return together when you find the culprit. Could it go to the head first? Starboard...

Steve, if your fuse/breaker is good, as you found, 10 amp at accessory fuse block, then you likely (my best guess-timate) have an open wire/bad connection. It could be the 12 volt hot wire or the ground wire. Either will break the circuit. The cabin lights are likely all daisy chained together...