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I'd drop that fuse down to a 10A if I were you...

One thing to keep in mind when it comes to t/hulls, whether they be on a GW or any other builders boat. Virtually all t/hull hoses have to be hooked up after the boat is decked, therefore the rigger needs access to the t/hulls-drains to do this. Oft times this access is disguised in the form...

Freddy, Great idea, and if you can find a machine that can apply the individual parts of the epoxy to each side of the screw...quickly...with little waste...can handle #6 up to #14 screws...you've got a winner! Did I mention anything about packaging?...

You can run it on muffs in the tilt mode, just try and keep as low as possible...

Since you don't have a baseline to go from, I'd change it out...NOW! That and the float. Cheap insurance for something that is vital to your boat's well being...

Cure...

You might want to check out these guys... http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/other_bulbs.htm

Usually a pad for the pump/switch is simply a piece of wood (in Grady's case) glassed to the hull bottom, then glassed over and gelcoated. Sounds like you just knocked some gel off. I would simply take some 5200 and put a good glob over the spot to cover and seal it, then re-install your...

You bring up a good point about outgassing and the effects it has on electrical componenents/wiring. However, I know many an owner who has moved the batts to the console with no ill effects. The key is proper ventilation so the escaping Hydrogen gas can't accumulate and work it's corrosive...

No, you can leave the switch where it is...but I'd dump that Perko and get either a BEP or a Blue Seas...JMO

Have you checked CL in your area or eBay? A nice used Lewmar Pro 700 would be perfect for a 282...

None whatsoever. Just make sure you have the appropriate cable sizing. Are you just going to move the batts and leave the switch and breaker in the bilge?

Do you have another fresh water pump switch located on the helm switch panel? If not, turn on your acc. switches, one of those may feed the switch by your spigot. Being a GW, I would imagine that switch is protected by a breaker, not a fuse.

I like playing sparky!

Does your solenoid look something like this? The center spade connector should be a ground. Put a meter on that connector and either of the top posts, and have your buddy operate the windlass, you should see voltage. If you don't your solenoid might be toast...

Is the switch mounted in a small panel with a breaker mounted below it?

Water Heaters (thank god you didn't say "Hot water heater"!) have been known to be located under galley areas on boats this size. Pull the fridge and take a peek...

The feed for your switch panel will be protected by a 40A breaker mounted close to the batts. From this breaker, there will be a feed that runs forward to your helm, maybe to a positive bus, maybe straight to your switch panel. Now, all the individual circuits are protected by there own...