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Good evening all - Tonight I come to you with two separate parts questions. First - have been trying like the devil to clean off the stainless bars all around the boat but have yet to find something that works well. Have tried my angle grinder & rotary sander (with several grit sizes & some...

I have it on a trailer here on a storage lot - but yes: we launch & re-cover same day. Your idea on power-wash & paint is starting to sound like the more practical approach. As to the jack stands - any brand recommendations? And for the blocks - should they be 4x4 or 4x6?

The current bottom paint is not smooth - and no it's dry docked. Just want to change the color from the sickly blue it is now to black.

This is true - but don't you think the lock lever will help keep it suspended long enough to replace the motor/harness?

This is a good idea; and a beautiful set-up by the way. How did you go about putting fiberglass on it? Reason I ask is - we are pressed for space: so keeping 5 gallon buckets can be tricky.

It is bottom painted - and it's okay; but to be honest - it just comes down to aesthetics. And for the 3-400 bucks in Barrier Coat/Paint I'd rather try if I can figure out an easy way to get it on jacks.

Evening all - I feel like I may go 3 for 3 with my evening questions - but for what it's worth: the information from all of you has been invaluable. Tonight - I have two questions: 1) Has anyone done a bottom coat (barrier + ablative since mine is dry-docked)? I have been watching videos...

Have had a whale of a time finding parts for my '92 Sailfish - my local Grady dealer had some; but it has still been painful. Which part?

That's RIGHT! I do it reflexively every time we trailer the boat - I just didn't think about it until you mentioned that! THANK YOU!

The Merc's thankfully have abundant OEM & Off Brand parts that make them cheaper than even Yamaha (forget Honda from what I hear from other owners). Right now I'm just trying to figure out if I can wedge a 2x4 when they are at top tilt to keep them from coming down on me while I replace them!

Seems that way. What I'm trying to verify is whether I need to lift the engine - or if I can simply replace them without needing to have the engines propped/removed in order to do it.

No worries - appreciate the offer!

They're actually twin Mercury Verado 200's - both with not even 300 hours; which is why I was so surprised that this component looked so rough. The parts are only a hundred bucks a piece - and if it's as easy as you say: might just do it on my own if the engines don't have to be lifted.

It's a 2017 Mercury Verado 200 - thanks either way!

Good evening all - Looking to identify a part - and what should be done about it. It's the rusted part to the right.

This is great for comparison - thank you!!

This has been our larger concern: which wires actually control what. We recently tore out the old Raymarine & Lowrance systems & put in the Garmin Chartplotter (including running it through the hull & mounting the transducer). We absolutely labelled those lines - but everything else is just...

It's a '92 Sailfish. To answer your question about the breakers: because so much of what has been added/changed has been run to the fuse block under the helm - I was debating the need for breaker switches given that I really only need 10-12 (that's with extras in case I add something later).

This is great help - and yes: I'm damn certain you're right that we don't need 14. I was going to hedge closer to 10 or 12 - the space is only 9x8 or so. Did you end up paying for the circuity breaker buttons as well? Debating since they are all connected to the fuse block. Would love to see...

Yeah I assumed they may be the breaker - but with it being old & so much having been re-purposed I wanted to be sure. To answer your question though - yes: it has been re-powered twice over the years. Now it even has a tuna tower with throttle controls up top as well - but it was never a stern...