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move clockwise if holding the router facing down

Does anyone know the size of the set-screw?

the light-tip bat toggle lights DO look pretty cool and a bit more modern! I might do this instead of the lit switch $12 vs $7 but it's really whichever I like to looks of better! I'm sure with a little trial and error I will figure out how to get it to light when the auto bilge comes on...

thanks, read it. will probably replace the LED lamps rather than the switch... so will measure.... Lit switch does make things easier and one of the posts above had one for $10 which is hard to argue with

I was thinking of the lamps not the switch. I guess I can measure the hole and see. I'll buy a lighted switch and see how it interacts with the bilge pump/on/off indicator that is separate from just the position switch

Does anybody know where to get the little indicator lights that go under the switches? or if there is a good LED replacement? I have a 1987 seafarer also, who makes these switches? They look like a black paddle toggle switch. searching the board finds ancient posts to nowhere... someplace...

What are the rods coming out of the bottom of the boat in this photo? after I removed the livewell to get at the aft bilge pump I found a rod laying in my bilge that looks similar.... PS your bilge is spotless.

boat is dry as a bone back in the water. Used the USS ultra safety system for the rear bilge. The front bilge is wired wrong and has no auto (only manual) mode. I rewired to be automatic when switched on until I can run a new wire for auto mode

I will go for a panel with circuit breakers from newwiremarine.com. I'll go for lit rocker switches and push-button circuit breakers. I'd like to simplify my life of glass fuses and blade switches my boat is an 87 and there is definitely a big space in the back where a fuel tank was removed...

I have a 1987 Grady white, original switch panel. I noticed a fuel switch. Also the aft bilge has no manual mode. I am probably going to upgrade the panel but what is the fuel switch? My boat presently has one 97 gallon tank. Is this a useless switch for an older setup with two tanks?

as a 1987 seafarer owner: 1) the floor panels are likely soft and will need to be re-cored. Grady does not believe in epoxying holes and edges. 2) the forward bulkhead is likely rotted and if not replaced both port and starboard should be replaced. 3) replace the teak with starboard when you...

This was the case. We had a lot of rain, and it probably failed during hurricane IDA. switch was stuck open and burned the pump out. I don't believe it was a coincidence that the bilge filled with water upon my arrival, and I think it was already pretty full. probably worse when it tilted...

yeah this part of the bilge is terrible. also fairly inaccessible without removing the live well. I have an indicator for the bilge presently. and seems to be working. amber light on the original panel. strangely when it is activated the live well light also comes on. something odd...

My bilge pump failed out on the water and nearly sunk the boat. thinking of replacing with two pumps on a switch as a backup. All is well (sump pump in the marina in the nick of time). I am not sure if there is another leak on the boat that caused this or just a week of rain including IDA...

I did anodized aluminum. Home Depot carries, but basically search for outdoor aluminum threshold moulding, gold or silver is typical. I used this anodized mirror finish. I liked that it has a lip that I ran over the edge but there is also flat bar. Dirt cheap, $13 .... anodized aluminum is...

there was a good total boat compound that starts as a rough compound and as you polish gets finer and finer, but I think I had the best results with 3M of all the things I tried

yeah, mine was heavily chalked. I started 1500 as you say to see if I would burn through the gel coat but there was just too much oxidation so I went down to 800 and then back up finer to compound.. could probably have even done 400! wet sanding. compounding would have never done it... or...

I wet sanded my Grady with 800 back up to 500, compounded polished up to finesse it. My 1986 had zero care from he previous owner and was chalked. It was a ton of work and at this price I would definitely purchase this service if I could find anyone in NYC. well worth it. maintenance is now...

I sort of hate docking with one engine with wind and tide going the wrong way for me. I'm always jealous of the dual engine setups but not of the maintenance unless the engines are very dependable.

Hi everyone, I have a 1986 Seafarer 228 (F225 on a bracket ) with a live well along the transom, and a hose. The live well and wash down hose are supplied via a seacock selector. I have a Sureflo Blaster. it doesn't really "blast" as it is a 3.5 GPH pump. The live well seems VERY low flow...