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a photo of the leak would help. the head gasket is between the head and block quite a bit lower down the side of the engine than the valve cover seam on top of the head where you describe a leak. the valve cover would not normally leak coolant but quite often seeps oil unrelated to coolant...

yeah i am still in favour of screwing a starboard board and then mounting. drill a pilot hole, fill the hole with 4200 and also coat the screw. pretty unlikely it will leak. that ebay listing is using 3m vhb tape which is ordinary double sided foam tape you can buy inexpensively at hardware...

make sure the two transducers don't have conflicting frequencies or neither will work at the same time. you can toggle the frequencies in setup to juggle this. you can buy a piece of starboard and screw it on the transom and attach multiple transducers to the starboard. this allows you to...

interesting discussion. i'd vote 3 or 4 bank depending on house consumption. i am conservative on this. the motors need one starter battery each. the two starters should be totally isolated from each other on two different banks. the house should be a third bank capable of being charged...

i spoke to a guy with one mounted on a 1980s 19 tournament. he used it to go to an xl leg with a 20" transom. offset was 5 or 6" and he was very happy with oerformance and really liked having the leg out of the water when tilted up

assuming that's a 102" trailer,, i'd need to know the gap between the inner tire wall and fender to answer your question. it would some combination of skinnier tires and rims, rims with more offset, modifying or removing the fender, and, as a last resort, shortening the axle or installing...

i'd say a definite no to any kind of permanently installed spray foam. flotation foam does not provide "flotation" unless there is a leak. it just occupies space that displaces water that would otherwise get inside if there is a leak. if you get a leak in a bracket, any type of foam will...

a 4" axle width adjustment on a trailer is easily doable and i will bet a lot cheaper than buying a trailer in australia.

that is excellent advice.

those compression numbers sound solid. you are right on the edge of a boat big enough/ costly enough to justify a survey i think. your call. by void space do you mean the centre bilge coffin areas (below the main deck) covered by large hatches? grady divides this bilge into compartments...

i think a new built to suit windshield from a maker is going to be shockingly spendy. you can try calling local boat builders to find out who their suppliers are and what they might have off the rack that could fit. if the glass is straight, you can adjust the width of a windshield frame by...

this. usb connectors are also going to corrode in salt air. just get a couple of plug in adaptors and use and replace them as needed.

sexy trailer. my only comment is don't buy one bigger than you need as they are a pita to store as it is.

my main thought on this is your motor plan. if you want a newer 4 stroke motor then don't put it on an ancient boat because the sum is worth less than the parts. if you are ok putting an older reliable 2 stroke motor on this boat then you can certainly put a transom on a free grady and come...

i have successfully defied that saying with every boat i have owned. it is all about looking before you leap, managing expectations, planning and shopping carefully and doing it yourself.

the issue with handhelds on boats is they have less power plus you are moving up and down rapidly with a very short antenna trying to maintain line of site. that's fine in calm weather but you can intermittently lose signal in bad weather when you need them. that being said, i just switched...

and again yep and thanks. i guess i was thinking of some fancy stand alone pump but there is no reason those won't work fine.

lol, that will work but that's also a universal fit tractor fuel pump at the heart of the kit and they have them hanging on the wall at the local farm supply shop. i hand't thought about it but i guess they are suction and can self prime. sometimes the answer is right in front of your face.

i am interested in any links folks have either to inexpensive pumps or inline filters they have used with success. i'd love to get a rig for this. i have done this with regular fuel line and establishing a siphon flow into a tank at a lower height with the bulb, but it doesn't maintain flow...

i think you will be ok with a 200 i think but you might want to run a 15" pitch prop to have better bite and control at the expense of speed. unless you run at wot, a 200 is going to perform very close to a 225. you'd need a 250 to see any major difference. most outboard makers historically...