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here is an ebay ad showing photos of a used pin. no sign of taper or a lock screw. is there any paint on the pin between the brackets? https://www.ebay.ca/itm/YAMAHA-LOWER-SHOCK-MOUNT-PIN-64E-43818-01-00-/252874626240

where is your fuel tank and how deep is your transom in the middle? before i got my 223 i looked at an early 80s 223 with twins. grady had installed the main tank shifted forward instead of aft against the bilge bulkhead like in most 22' hulls. they also had a installed a 25" transom measured...

i will definitely seal it under the cap with epoxy. my plan is to drill out the cap screw holes with a 12" lineman bit and back fill them with epoxy sealer to treat the transom and make sure there is no serious rot. i did that with the 14' boat project this summer. luckily the sawdust...

a fibreglass repair guy can sand it down, repair any damage and apply a new coat of gelcoat that will be a reasonably close match.

the 223 has a sharp corner notched transom and i don't like it visually with two trim pieces meeting and a mitre cut. the curve on the 190 looks much nicer. i talked to a local commercial boatbuilder about this for a little 14' runabout i am restoring that got me going on doing this project...

fair enough. i prefer to stand and look over the windshield and sit down and use the windshield if it's raining or windy. possible a bad assumption he does too.

i have tried various options including a local marine shop fabricator. equal sided and thickness aluminum angle is easy enough and i may go that route. the issue is the tight curve in the corner on this boat presents a challenge to bend the angle without splitting the material. i have been...

do you have a link to a photo of the composite cap? there is no dealer near me to ask those questions.

if you stand, try building a plywood platform where you stand to test and mess with the height. you can add something more permanent if that works.

and now i understand what the hourglass comment was about. i've never done that but i see how it would be extra security in key locations. thanks for the tip!

unless you already have a good tight undamaged fit for your replacement bow eye you will want to fill the two existing holes in the hull and then drill two new holes using your new bow eye plate as a jig. given you had rot i doubt your fit was tight. when you fill a hole in the hull of a boat...

does anyone have a good source for the aluminum angle trim cap material for transoms? ideally stainless steel i guess. i'd like to renew the trim cap on my tournament 190 since the galvanic effect of the dissimilar metal in the stainless mounting screws has rotted out the mount holes. this...

this subject is interesting to me. there must be companies out there fabricating inexpensive windshields for boat makers using off the shelf extrusions and there must be insurers out there fixing windshields plus some consumer demand. the actual cut and fitment of a non curved windshield does...

dennis hit the nail on the head except i would add i am saying to use a special epoxy sealer like "rot doctor" or totalboat systems. this is a thinned epoxy solution specially formulated to slow cure and soak into wood so it does more than just create a surface coat. i discovered it when...

was there any visible clue to this rot from the outside? the trick to this is to get the two bow eye holes to line up and to prevent a future leak. i'd first fill the two current hull holes with epoxy filler after gouging them out a little from the inside at an angle with a drill to get to...

i looked into this before for a small boat. if you are looking for aluminum extrusion pieces that you can cut and fit together into a windshield yourself, there does not seem to be an online marine supplier catering to that. the custom windshield places are super pricey and maybe for good...

also, when you pull the plugs check and compare them. if one is different you can likely focus on that cylinder.

i run a 1985 120 johnson v4 looper on my 190 tournament that is original to the boat. great motors. in my experience they use a lot less gas than a 150 carbed v6, so unless you are ready to move up to a direct injection or 4 stroke motor or maybe convert to a single motor, there is no need to...

if your engine has a 1.75:1 gear ratio then you should be going faster at any given rpm than a boat with a 2.0:1, not slower. you would need to have a gear ratio of around 2.8-3.0:1 to explain your results all other things being equal. also, 4000 rpm to get to 20 mph makes no sense at all. 38...

hey steve, nice engine setup. i have a 1986 tournament 190 with the original 1985 johnson 120 v4 looper on the back from the factory. the motor was converted to run pre-mix long ago and it still has 128 psi on all four corners same as when i bought it 12 years ago. i run a 15.5x15" prop on...