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George is correct. When my friend developed the stalling/rough cold idle problem we just popped it in gear until it warmed up a bit. The solution was easy. Changed the plugs.

I've been following your build and I like the way you prioritized what you did. Most people bite off too much at one time , then get overwhelmed, and lose interest. I love the way you accesorized the bow :goodjob

Water Bonnet is the original supplier. www.marineglassspecialties.com

The shift interrupt switch is visible under the cowl but I'm leaning towards the shift shaft and seal where the shift shaft enters the lower unit. Any corrosion there will ruin your day.

Evinrude Johnson gasket cement works best. Prevents corrosion, easy to dis-assemble and you don't get galvanic problems as you do with anti-seize.

One of the members here does starboard fabrication. His name is Jason and he goes by jbrinch88. Do a search. He does nice work.

Bumpye, there is a great book named "The Log of the Liberators". You may even find your Dad or his plane mentioned. About 30 years ago I was reading about a Liberator pilot from Brooklyn. I looked up his name in the phone book and he lived a couple of streets over from me. I knocked on his door...

The last three boats I owned were un-named. I'm thinking of Boaty McBoatface. My wife says no.

I had a similar problem. My macerator would run for 20 seconds and trip the breaker. I replaced the macerator and the same thing. Turns out a mud dauber plugged up the vent line. Also clogged the drain from the instrument panel. I would check vents for sure.

Why would anyone build a 200k boat and hinge it's entire integrity on a smear of life caulk and a $5 thru hull is beyond me. My Seafarer has some water in the transom but it's not rotted-yet. Where did the water come from? The 2 1/2" holes drilled through the transom for the deck scuppers. .50c...

These builders never learn. Hatteras, Sea Ray, and others had huge problems with cored hulls. When you buy a boat it's not like buying a car. A well made boat will last a lifetime. I'm waiting for the inevitable transom on my Seafarer but thank G-d it's hanging in there.

Why wouldn't you take that boat to the canyons? I did one canyon trip this year in a 28 Rampage and 3 in a 24 Northcoast.

When I'm at the dock I remove my deckplates on my Seafarer and replace with these. They just snap in and look great. My belowdecks are dry as a bone now. No more black funk and mold. I can't recall whether they were 6" or 8"? They were $6 apiece at Lowes...

I myself am looking for a Great Lakes OX66 250. I figure fresh water and a real short boating season.

Just scour the net including E-Bay and see what they have sold for in the recent past. Appraisal by comparison.

As far as I'm concerned if a wet transom is a deal breaker you will never be able to buy a used boat. Years ago the carpenter at my marina told me regarding my wood Egg Harbor-" There are two kinds of Eggs-Those with a rotted stem and those that had the stem replaced". I'm starting to feel that...

I replaced mine on my 1992 last year. The bilge pumps were 1 1/8, the livewell was 1 1/8, the fish boxes were 1" as were the front cockpit drains. Not an easy job. I would still contact Grady though as was suggested.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GRADY-WHITE-SEAT-SPIDER-ASSEMBLY-TAX-FREE-/302350871806?rmvSB=true That is an original but pretty much any spider will fit.

Isn't 5 bars a lot? My Seafarer runs best at 2.

Re: Would anyone be interested in having starboard work done Jason, perfect timing. I'll get those hatches out to you soon. What about that phony teak trim? You have a substitute for that?