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Any obvious issues with the prop itself? Dings, chips, uneven shape, etc. same with the hull bottom…any barnacle growth ahead of the transom?

Insist on a sea trial with the seller after you look at it visually (may need to offer a bit of a deposit). The boat should have no problem getting on plane quickly with that horsepower and should be over 40 mph top end. If that isn’t happening, it’s either walk away or offer at a steep discount...

If you change out again at some point ideally use hose clamps with crimps rather than the screw in type (screw in type can dig into the rubber and will cause an earlier failure than the crimp type) https://a.co/d/hLphT0a

6-10 hp would be fine for 20-22’

You might not have to do the entire transom. With an outboard, the structural integrity is more important with the weight and torque strain. With an I/O you don’t have the same level of strain (assuming you are keeping as an I/O). Are you seeing signs of water intrusion at the outdrive?

Be sure to check with your insurance provider before bumping up to 300. They may not cover if above manufacturer specs

Are you just replacing the one tire? If you aren’t planning long distance trips you’d be fine with something cheaper, no doubt. Your other 3 tires may last a while yet, so I’d probably just get something similar to what your have and at some point down the road just replace them all. what...

Perhaps GW customer service can help in providing you with dimensions

When it comes to the wood trim, a power wash generally helps to prep the surface, then minor sanding, then ideally a tack cloth to remove dust, acetone wipe down and then you are good to apply varnish (or oil). Use throw away gloves all the time ideally to prevent skin oils from fouling things up

I use Epifanes varnish on teak. It’s time intensive but comes out quite nice. All in the prep work (power wash, spot sanding, acetone wipe down) then up to 8-12 coats using less thinner with each coat. Teak oil cleans up nice, it’s easier to use but doesn’t last as long and doesn’t have the same...

Looks like a Phillips head screw should be loosened on the side and then you should be able to adjust? It looks like that screw tightens two pieces with interlocking teeth when screwed in? might be that there was originally a thumb screw that was lost and replaced with a Phillips head screw...

Can you measure the existing motor? edit - this is how to measure https://boatbuildercentral.com/support-tutorials/Tutorials/outboard-shaft-lengths-and-transoms.pdf

Is the throttle adjustment cable set correctly?

Unpopular opinion- you can find a used trailer. You just have to inspect closely and not overpay and expect to replace some parts. Are you comfortable inspecting a used trailer and then fitting it to your boat? Including getting tongue weight correct?

Scary, glad you were able to get back in safe with everyone and everything in tact

https://a.co/d/5Kmd3qA

I think it’s worth investing in a small 6 gal fuel tank to run engines on fresh gas while working on the old fuel tank. When I was trying to get rid of old gas, my marina wouldn’t take it, even though they dispose of oil, because gas is more combustible. The harbor master said to put the old gas...

I think the issue you may run into is that it’s unlikely to sell anywhere except CA. Shipping would be a challenge otherwise. And so, a limited market of potential buyers. May be a needle in a haystack to find the right buyer. Maybe a trade might be an option.

Personally I would try to find a different swivel to limit the chances. Then use a shackle with monel seizing wire like family affairs picture there is this one from WM.. i think on my rig is a swivel with no bolt… will check if i can find… tbh i think most anchor setups I’ve used didn’t...

Looks great, nice work