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So I like what I hear about the Yamaha ox66 engine. This engine (01 YAMAHA OX66 225 SX225TXRZ RUNNING OUTBOARD ENGINE ) online with 700 hours. For those who are in the know... what should the compression be for each cylinder? I'll disclose what the post says for cyl compression. Thanks for...

Yes I know Henry well. Can picture his boat sitting on his mooring. Moorings are rare to have in Ipswich especially where his is in the river. The wait list is 10yrs + at this point.

I have a Pittsburgh PA birth certificate, lived in Philly but have lived in Boston for 45 years... I’d say I am a Patriots, Red Sox, Celtics and Bruins fan. Should be a good game!

hey, couple of off topic questions for you 2 guys.... 1st.. is one of you 2 the seller of that bracket that I have an agreement with? That Grady bracket will go on the back of my brand new transom (once the weather warms up here in Boston and I can get back to work on it!) 2nd... Skunk... you...

Oh... so then put the breaker after the switch like I originally had it in my design. Just put it close to the switch as that would be the power source to my house accessories. I will not add a breaker on the engine side. I appreciate both of you and your help. I have been around boats...

I get what you are saying... the switch is not protected (or the ACR for that matter) because the breaker would be after it. And what you are saying is that if for some reason the switch should fail, unless the breaker was between the switch and the battery then there would be a meltdown...

What i meant by that is I intend to put the un-switched bilge hot wire on the same bolt where the house battery connects to the battery switch. It will be before the switch and hence always on. Huh.. I would think that the breaker would be better after the switch on the way to the house...

Ok I get it now. As you can see I added a positive directly to the house battery. I found that I can attache it at the battery switch where the house lead attaches so it is not switched. Between the float switch and the battery there is a 7.5A fuse. The bilge is also attached to a breaker...

Ahh...see... this is why you ask questions. I guess I need to revisit my bilge pumps.... and even the whole schematic. Look into what others have done and fine tune everything. question... I have a breaker protecting my whole house. Then after that up at the helm I have a fuse block and...

Like this...

Regarding the bilge pumps, I have seen float-switches passing through fuse blocks (either at the helm or stern). They will not be ignition activated but live all the time. The manual on switch will go through my breaker switch panel. My intention was to feed them from my fuse block. I think...

This is my start... I'll add more and label with time.

Thanks for the input. I definitely think I may be overthinking the whole setup. I am a firm believer in K-I-S-S because when you get fancy then there are more chances something will go wrong. I started adding up amperes of different accessories. I had no idea how few amps some of these...

aww man.... I thought I had it down. So if you don't put the negative from the engine to a designated post (like my common negative buss bar) then how do you bring it all together? like this... - Engine (-) to engine battery (-) - Engine battery (-) to (-) buss bar - House battery...

NOTE: I had to fix the picture labels in the 8th post. The whole system was not grounded at the engine. I think it makes more sense now. All negative sources need to lead back to the engine. I accomplish this with that 4 screw negative buss bar. The engine negative is there, both battery...

Thank you both for your advice.... I am all ears on this subject of electricity. I want to do this project only once and in the end it is not worth skimping due to spending a few extra dollars. Voltage and Amperes and length etc have always been something that I need to keep going back to...

Let me answer your questions the best I can..... I intend to run a single engine... 2 batteries I've read a lot about the Blue Seas Add a Battery. It prevents you from depleting both batteries.... the engine battery in particular. The ACR will send the charge to the engine battery first to...

So definitely do not go 100A breaker... will do. I'll return it (again) and drop down to a 50A breaker. Sound good? This is why I ask questions. Here is someone else's work that I intend to follow. Look good? He had an electric down-rigger that utilized the extra ground and breaker...

Thank you both for your insight! I did purchase marine grade wire and ring terminals.... - 3M Adhesive Heat Shrink Tinned Copper ring terminals - 16 AWG primary wire (black and red) - tinned copper from GenuinedealZ.com I didn't purchase the wire that will run from the stern to the helm yet...

I am upgrading my electrical system. Boat is a '84 242 and I have big plans. First, most of the wiring is junk so I figured I would replace all that I can. I began by cleaning out everything from the helm back. I have done lots of research and am adding a new Blue Sea battery switch with...