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:sorry Uhhh, OK, take out the screws, break the sealant where it isn't already, pull up the 'panel', see what's there. In the alternative, pull the round access covers and feel around, there should be something glassed to the under side, or lateral bracing across the tank, or both. Hopefully...

Do I replace the whole thing with Starboard or is there some kind of support I can add underneath? Starboard is lousy for weight bearing hatches. There should be a wood panel (or scrap pieces of plywood) glassed to the back side of what you have, pull it and see what's there ...

:uhm Should be printed on the cable sheath ...

UNLESS you have the proper battery switch which I believe he said is the Blu-Seas. It's called a 'make before break' switch, all the usual suspects make one. I don't know if one that isn't is still manufactured ... :wink:

I used one for about 10 years on two different boats. Worked just fine, but don't over-compress it. And make sure which side your trim sender is on (if you have one) ... :wink:

:uhm And what would the final tab be after all the de-rigging, uninstall, prep, re-install, and re-rigging? I'm thinking $2650 isn't out of line for 'quality' work. I would have the old bracket powder coated, however ...

Try this ... http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/engine_flush.html ... :wink:

That's good to know. My Tahoe was totaled in a 5-car fatal in Albemarle (not my fault, but I probably came closest to death after the liable driver who did die), and I had to scramble to get the scow home from Southport ... :wink:

:uhm No reason to cinch down either style strap to the point of stressing anything, and there are chafe pads out there. The strap secures the trailer to the boat so it goes where the boat goes. Gradywhite, where did you rent your truck?

Also the bracket has threaded holes that are on the underside of the bracket directly behind engine bracket. Could this be for a anode or a privious owner trying to drain the bracket when he pulls it out of the water? Grady experimented with a splash plate between the bracket and engine...

You can't determine the correct prop until you get the motor right, meaning height and know you're WOT for what you have. You will know the height is right when the vent plate is just above the water when at speed, but still getting splashed. You can usually go one more hole up without...

Re: Advice needed - re-installing aluminum fuel tanks in GW Many things thought to be USCG general regs are, in fact, manufacturing regulations, and not 'use' regulations. Having had to remove Grady tanks before, I surely wouldn't want to do it after a foam installation. I'd be sure ...

:uhm The answer isn't a bigger breaker, if that's what you're thinking ...

and a weight distribution platform hitch. Don't be misled, the factory 'weight distribution platform' is not the same as a 'weight distribution hitch'. Your 'platform likely has two limits, one for standard draw bar/ball, and one for a weight distribution hitch system. I have a '01 Tahoe that...

The 'Y' valve I had was junk, so was the Grady replacement. Instead, I installed one of these Groco ball valves like this onein my '86 T-225. Mounted it to the bulkhead (not the transom) under the port access hatch ...

im beginning to think my engine is to high. Most I've seen are in one of the two middle holes. My last Grady (Springfield bracket) was in the second, the top hole caused ventilation in anything but straight flight. Run it up to speed, and look at the vent plate. If it's just skimming the...

What in OPs statement tells you that this "rule of thumb" has been checked to be OK? Revised: We have a disagreement based on comprehension of the problem. I'm still betting there's something he's missing, motor mounting is pretty much 'plug and play' within a hole, maybe two. He won't get...

"Rule of thumb" is cav plate even - 1/2" higher if mounted directly on transom, and up 1" for every 1' back from transom if mounted on bracket. :uhm I always thought of that rule as the initial mounting, which is moot for the OP. His plate is buried when mounted as high as possible. Something...

:uhm I'd find the problem before 'tearing into' stuff. Once you locate the problem, then decide what to tear out and what to leave. Those hoses tend to be pretty stiff when new, much less 15 years old ...

What is the WOT range for your engine, what is the actual, what is the make model of the engine, what is the shaft length? Engine mounting holes have been standard for a great many years, there's something else amiss ... :?: