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Replace the ball, it's the cheapest component. I once spent about $1k to fix a $10 problem that had no indication of being a problem, my first encounter with ethanol problems ... :shock:

Any tips? Don't use 5200 when a sealer is called for. You could lose chunks of gel coat should you have reason to remove or adjust the engine again. I've learned over time that 'tweaking' has its limits. If your performance is OK, it's unlikely moving the motor will yield much. Try out the new...

I removed fuel fill cap and the boat runs fine as it normally should. You have a vent problem, start at the vent fitting and work backward ... :wink:

I love the way west marine makes exact replicas of other products. :uhm It's called re-branding. West makes nothing and buys everything they sell from those who do ...

Reading the owners manual I see that I am supposed to rinse the tank with fresh water from time to time. Your hatch cover should have two access ports, pull the covers and flood with fresh water. The middle will be blocked off by lateral supports, and isn't the usual place for corrosion. I did...

sounds like when the time comes I probably should be replacing with the good grade aluminum or plastic. Seems I read somewhere that 'plastic' is no longer allowed in a confined space, perhaps due to permeability. While she may have been babied, she's still 34 years old. You might want to...

:uhm The only issue I see is the crack, the rest is some acetone wiping and a little wet sanding. You should find someone to do estimates for you, too. If the guy says 'new paint job', I'd deal only with insurance. They'll want the easy way out, which is do what the guy wants and let you pay...

Try these folks, I got some gasket stuff from 'em some years ago ... http://www.marineglassspecialties.com/?page_id=25

See post by mboyatt, same subject ...

Disconnect the hydraulic cylinder from the motor, easy turn - problem is with the motor, still hard - problem is with steering. ITC, most likely at the helm. Disconnect motor cables from the motor and operate, same scenario ... :wink:

I seriously doubt someone would jump in the water to remove a engine anode. :uhm So do I, but the boat was on a trailer! Never heard of one splitting, more likely to just lose the fin (have seen that) ...

any advice welcome. :uhm Don't continue the same actions and expect different outcomes, something made both engines quit. Twice! Start at the fuel tank(s) and work toward the engines. Check everything, don't assume anything ...

The rubber stopper was still in place and the bolt still in the hole when I found this. :hmm Come on, guys, plugs and bolts don't replace themselves. He was ripped off ...

Good information/suggestions ...

Florida Marine Tanks, in Henderson. They may have made your OEM tank ...

:uhm Your transom will never be 'dry'. I think you know what the answer to the problem ...

... and for that they may come after me. And they may just tell him to stuff it. He might 'want' to have the entire boat stripped and re-done, but that doesn't mean he can or will. And it's real doubtful his company would come after you for $6K (even if they did pay that much). Offer to have...

One indication that the prop is slipping is an increase in RPMs from the RPMs of a secure hub. The couple that I've spun both worked well at lower RPMs, but would break lose under heavy loading. Had one even shed the body of the prop ... :wink:

I tried to let it dry out for several days before resealing everything. Is it even possible for these boats to absorb that much water? Yeah, it's possible to absorb enough water to affect performance. What's not possible is to 'let it dry out' ... :uhm

Was that a 4 stroke 200? No, a Yamahaha 2-stroker. He subsequently re-powered with a 225 (still 2-stroke), and it was a world of difference ... :wink: