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I am just talking about the aluminum transom cover. No drain for that. Buuut, that area is notorious for letting water in, which may/can eventually cause rot in the transom. I'd inspect the area closely and seal it up well ... :wink:

When I bought my 225G, the bracket drain was nylon, and had been buggered beyond recognition. I removed it, and replaced with a bronze Garboard, cut and fit a gasket, used stainless screws. I replace the screws every couple of years, have replaced the gasket once in 7 seasons. Sooner or later...

Drift anchors, one on each side of the bow, like this one http://store.minnkotamotors.com/products/392946/Minn_Kota_Drift_Sock. You'll have to add a little power if you want more the 1 mph. A little of a pain, but less so than fooling with buckets, and highly effective ... :wink:

You spent that kind of money and didn't know what the payment would be? :huh

Rather have a spare prop. Like having a spare tire.... Only if you can get the flat tire off and the spare on. You night want to try it, I did and found out you can apply little, if any, leverage on a wrench, cotter pin, or prop nut when in the water suspended under a PFD. A whole different...

:uhm What's in it now? Grady should be able to replace it, or tell you who the vendor was ...

It's more of an emergency measure to get back home if I lose a blade in the river. Isn't that what SeaTow is for, to get you home? :uhm

:uhm Every boat deserves a name ...

:uhm No need to drain the system 'just because'. Your helm should be high upstream and there will likely be only a cup or two leakage. If you have a loop in the hoses after they enter the console, you can about see how much will drain. If you lay the hoses horizontal while you work, though...

so are the electric ones better? Follow the money ... :uhm

Weight the boat and trailer. Any truck stop will allow you to pull on the split scale and give you a weight for the front dolly and the axle, only then can you know. The easiest way to reduce tongue weight is to move the boat to the rear, but advisable only if there will be adequate support for...

In a perfect world, if there is such a thing, here's what I would look for: - smooth water, - only motor trim for best RPM and speed, tabs only to correct any list, - max RPM in the upper range, right at max if lightly loaded, - vent plate ever so slightly above water level when solidly on...

:uhm It's a complex computation, but I bet Grady could tell you. My '86 Tournament 225 is 19 degrees ...

It's solid glass, not gel coat, and it's all covered. Didn't see a single spider crack when I had mine off, and that was after redrilling. This is a case where the end justifies the means, meaning disassembly is far more likely to create problems than drilling without countersink ... :|

Sealant, yes. Countersink? Not possible under this windshield frame without removing the whole thing ... :|

:uhm Try this ... http://www.boatersplus.com/t-h-marine-seacock-185.html

FIRST: Make sure the opening will allow the tank to fit through (width-wize). You may find you need to trim the rim slightly. Once cross member(s) and wedges are removed, the tank should slide toward the end with the smallest end lip, use the fill fittings as a handle and work the tank through...

You're over-thinking this, drill the holes with a moderate speed, a sharp bit, and steady hand. As with most screw holes in solid glass, the screws can't be too much larger than the holes without binding ... :wink:

Have you ever thought of using Rain X on the windshield? I thought about it, even bought the stuff. But after talking with several folks who did it, I decided to depend on the starboard wiper. I'm in saltwater, so it gets a soap/fresh water rinse every time out and I'm OK with it. Be careful...

Free? Free? I paid dearly for my experience, look for an invoice in your Private Messages. :dance Be very careful with your windshield glass, it can and will spot without proper cleaning and care. You didn't say what year you have, but I found the weak points on my '86 the hard way - there...