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well of course there will be smell if you're trolling with the wind. And there's noise. I just taught my wife that outboards are loud and smelly, so she doesn't know any better! I do understand how "she" factors into your mathematical equation....

happened to me a few years back on my carb'd Yamaha 200. Reverse would not engage but would rev fine, would go forward fine. It was the shift shaft. On Yamaha's they were not stainless steel before 1992 (I think), so it will fail eventually. I opted to re-power rather than invest that kind...

I guess if you're only thinking resale, and the weight wont be an issue, then go for it, but if you think "more efficient" means you'll save money, then its not gonna happen unless you're running 200-300 hrs per year+. I run approx 100 hrs per year and it would have taken 18 years to recoup...

1) what condition is the bottom? Any growth? 2) have a survey done on the hull? Maybe its got some water saturation?

And if she were throwing it off a Grady.....she's got nice form though

I thought I could get away w/ a hand-held at first. When you are pounding into seas, you cannot clearly see a screen that small, let alone be able to scroll/magnify/select options. I got a Garmin 172C a few years back on sale for about $400. So you don't need to spend thousands on a mounted...

ooohhh. Windlass. What's that? :roll: Wish I had that "problem"!!!

sounds like a homemade splice loop. Spliced loops should have a loop-guard (thimble) in them, either plastic or stainless. That prevents the rope from getting worn by the chain. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... sNum=10362

I try to give $3-$5 tip to the kids at the fuel dock. They normally act suprised. When I go to one of the local restaurants w/ a dock, I don't tip.

Note that I tried this w/ a dead batt a few weeks back. #1 dead, switch to #2, fire up fine, switch back to #1, go to throttle up and motor goes, but immediately started surging and wanting to die. So the stator wasn't putting out enough amps to both charge the battery and run my electronics...

do you have separate batteries for each engine? If so, check the terminal connections. I assume both throttles were in the neutral position. A fuse should not affect engine, gauges, AND trim motor. Trim motor should be a separate fuse. So it sounds more like a battery issue

the 204 Fisherman is a CC. The overnighter is a WA. There's 500 extra lbs in an overnighter. You might be fine w/ a 150. I'd prefer to be overpowered than underpowered.

I think you're really going to want 200hp on there. You boat is rated for 230 hps. I have a 228, which is rated to 280 hp, and I have a 200hp OX66, and that is minimum power, and many repower 228s with 225 or 250s (2-Stroke). The 175 is probably minimum hps for your engine. A 200 would run...

So you already bought the boat? :shock: Did you have a survey done? Was there any saturation in the hull or transom? If it had water sitting inside the hull for 10 years, then its probably been absorbing water into the hull for 8 years. You might need to completely strip the gelcoat off...

people sell relatively brand new boats because: a) they're upgrading to something newer b) they can't afford the boat c) something happened to it and they want to unload it If its "a", then likely the boats been well maintained and there should be realtively nothing to worry about. If...

Don't be afraid of a boat w/ 2- strokes. (see "Yamaha exhaust corrosion" on THT). It will take 15-20 years to recoup the extra cost of a 4-S in fuel savings. I bought my 1988 228 for $10,500 7 years ago. It had the original Yamaha w/ about 500 hrs on it. No hardtop. Old electronics...

maybe sandblasting is necessary to get the barrier coat off? April-October is a long time to be in the water. That's more than 6 months at a time. If the boat had previously been lift-kept or trailered, I would be dollars to donuts that A&M Marine did not apply the barrier coat...

point taken No Problem. I am not familiar w/ 'Rudes, but am familiar w/ Yamahas and all the issues posted on THT.

that prop looks pretty rusty. Was it like that 4 years ago after it was reconditioned? I'm sure it could be ground down, but those are significant dings so it won't be 'like new'. The shop would need to grind a good 1/8-1/4" off the edges of every blade to get it even. I'd do what...

Joe! Hold up a sec! What do you mean by "2 gallons of the hard for barrier coat"? You don't mean you applied 2 coats of hard epoxy bottom paint and think that is a "barrier coat" do you? A "Barrier coat" is a 2-part epoxy coat you apply before bottom paint. Hard epoxy bottom paint...