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probably not high pressure. I had a similar issue when my carbs were gummed up. It would start, but sometimes had to continue to pump the primer ball to keep it running, would run for a little and then stall when put into gear. Though yours sounds more like either an air leak in the...

anywhere from 50' to 300' back. Lighter rigs on the longer lines. Good luck

an "underused" engine can be more problematic than an "overused" one. The worst thing you can do to an outboard is to not use it. So be careful and don't jump at a 6 y.o. outboard with only a hundred or so hours on it. You should expect 50-100 hrs/year as normal use. I have a pre-CV...

if you use the epoxy paste, make sure you can fully fill the holes. Not just a coat over the holes, but to actually fill them. 5200 (non fast cure) will take a week to cure in 60 degree weather. Fast cure takes 24-36 hours. You can use West Systems 205 fast hardener in cold temps, so...

I'll rephrase to "thats for an engine sitting for a year or longer...." the owner's manual probably doesn't say anything about "dormant" engines, only "new". Thanks for pinpointing the details!

Why would you not use the full # of coats? to save $? A barrier coat is essentially a bunch of 'platelets' (like fish scales), that overlap each other. It must be thinned w/ epoxy thinner to apply, and goes on as a very thin coat. That is why you need to apply 4-5 coats to get a true...

I'd say its up to you. Epoxy would be the best and prettiest repair, but obviously more work than just using some 5200 and driving the screws back in. I will be replacing my sounder and transducer, and intend to fill w/ epoxy and re-tap. Now I would wonder about the 'random' screws you've...

This is for an engine that's been sitting for years, not a few months. Similar to a brand new 2-S engine where you have to run it rich for the first 20 hours.

doesn't really matter to get 'marine grade' if you seal it up completely. I used 3/4" standard plywood. -clean out all remnants of old patchwork ply and epoxy. sand down. - cut ply to size including inspection port hole - apply coat of epoxy thickened w/ cabosil to hatch - lay ply, fill...

Winterizing an engine is pretty easy. I'm not sure what "de-winterizing" is. You get the boat in the water, fire it up, and roll. Only potential thing could be to replace the plugs. Otherwise, thing like lower unit oil should have been replaced when winterizing. So, these are basic...

The term "aquaguard" is misleading in that this is NOT a barrier coat type of product. How long do you intend on keepnig your boat in the water? I would say that if you keep it in a slip for the season, or even for a few weeks at a time, you should consider a barrier coat prior to applying...

Just a note, I also have an 88 seafarer, got it 8 years ago, the first summer I did the teak refinishing treatment. It looked AWESOME for about 2 months, and by the end of that summer, it looked like it did when I bought it. So...dn't waste your time on that.

What I did was make 2 mounting plates for the speakers out of wood and screwed it into the little side panel spaces next to the helm and passenger seat, above where the drink holders are. Great sound even when running hard, and I have a OX66, so speakers back by the transom won't work too well...

They also sell chrome plated bronze thru-hulls for the nice above-the-waterline look. BUT don't be fooled by the "chromed plastic" ones that look nice and mettallic but are actually just plastic

what kind of paint and why only 1 coat? Ive never gotten 100% coverage from just 1 coat. I put 3 coats of Petit Ultima SR on my Seafarer 2 years ago and bottom looks great. Will put 2 coats on this year which should give me 2 more years of antifouling protection.

There is a drain tube that runs from the forward bilge area back under thte fuel tank to the rear bilge. From the rear bilge you'll see 2 tubes, one being this drain tube and the other being the drain from the fuel tank compartment. The fuel tank compartment drain is what you should have...

The most important thing for the paint is to look at the "Max Dry Time Before Launch". Many bottom paints (ablative and epoxy) have time limits of maybe a day (like 9-36 hours) between when you paint the hull and when you launch. That means if you pull it onto a trailer and leave it out of...

If it sat in a slip with only paint and no barrier coat, you might discover more than just flaky paint and shiny gelcoat. Blisters. First of all, if you go with a soda blast, it will essentially sand the gelcoat lightly, so it won't be shiny. And you probably wouldn't do well running with a...

my tabs are painted w/ primer and antifouling paint. Had my boat in the water for the past 8 years and never had a zinc on the tabs, or corrosion.

Do yourself a favor and install a bus bar for the negatve ground, and run ALL your negatives there (motor, batteries, electronics). Its much easier to spread your negatives out over 4 connections than trying to cram a bunch onto the 2 battery posts.