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No, not at all. You weren't incorrect in any way. But often people read these threads and I only wanted to add some extra clarification. I guess using the term "correctness" was meant more in a very general way... but maybe it wasn't the "correct" choice of words... ;)

Well... for the sake of "correctness" :) it can be used on any boat with a thru-hull pickup, regardless of style of boat. An inboard/v-drive ski boat... a v-drive/inboard cruiser... a sterndrive boat with a B3 that was reconfigured to thru-hull... a generator... air conditioning...

For "tilt" suppose ideas... sometimes you can simply use a 2x in the right spot :)

The anode is doing it's job - that's what they are designed to do. That is a GOOD thing. It's still "decent" - but it's getting close to replacement time. The trim pump - it happens - pretty normal. It starts at the crack between the top cap and body as that's a "hard" edge that doesn't hold...

You don't need a fake a lake to run the engine. You needs "muffs" - they're about $6 and look like ear muffs. This is for running it at home which is smart to do. At the ramp, you just back it into the water - nothing else is needed. But keep it on the trailer till you're satisfied. You...

Oh... put the plug in...........

Sure! Do you have access to a hose? Get a set of "muffs" ad run it at home. Does your engine have dual water intakes? I don't think so on that engine - but double check - it's easy to see by just looking. If so, tape/cover the extra intake. Then let it run for a while to charge batteries -...

He tricked us! :) Cup's shouldn't be too hard to find - do you have a local marine store nearby? Or one you can mail it to? I don't mean a West Marine - I mean a real place :) Otherwise, just check the specs on what you find online and compare - Google for something like boat pedestal...

I agree - those look quite nice, actually. If you're having issues with moving the seat, it might be due to another issue. I would just clean them up and put the seat back on. If you want, use some dry lube.

That worked out well... thanks for typing the brunt of the response, Skunk! :) I would start by "skinning" the top glass layer about twice as big as you circled. Yes, stay away from corners/edges so you don't have to rebuild them. Given how thin the top glass layer is, you'll realistically...

Welcome aboard! First thing to be aware of... a general rule of thumb is the rot is most likely 3x as big as you think it is. So be ready :rolleyes: I don't understand this sentence: "How much of the old deck do I need to bond the new piece to it around the edges? 1 1/2""? The center deck is...

Yeah, assuming the gear ratio is the same, that's a pretty big jump for only 20HP.

I know - I was making a joke regarding how old the tech is on boats... guess it wasn't a good joke if it needs to be explained :)

Very cool picture, Enfish! You've been saving that one for just the right occasion! :)

Yes, once a system moves into the 20th century and out of the 19th century :) with a canbus type thing, it all becomes digital. However, the sender is still 19th century - everything else is downstream of that. So the same method can still be applied - whether the sender is feeding the canbus...

What prop did you have on the 130HP? What speed did you get with the 130HP? Was the 130 a 4-cylinder and the 150 a 6-cylinder? Was the tach re-adjusted for the increase in cylinders? What did the compression check on the 150HP show? FYI, it's an "anti-ventilation" plate. Cavitation is a...

Gotcha. For what it's worth, it's going to take years for the paint to wear off to the point where you start to see through it with ablative. I haven't dealt with hard paint in a long time (since the ablatives are generally the "go-to" anymore)... but when it comes time to touch up the hard...

Don't even give it a second thought. Regular 87 at the pump is fine. You're good. Change your thought process and think of it this way... It's exactly what trailer boaters do all the time (myself included) and also boaters in slips where access to on-water gas isn't available. I would...

No worries. The initial check is still exactly the same - regardless of what things downstream are reading the signal, the float is still the same 'ol thing. Start there.

From that statement, it sounds logical - but it might be worth a 2-minute phone call to them to verify. Although in your case, I guess it really doesn't matter if the paint stops protecting since you're not keeping it in the water. But commenting about your first post regarding "needing to be...