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Sticky pump switches drive me crazy. This is the best mod I ever did on my Grady: https://www.ultratef-gel.com/product/ultra-bilge-pumpswitch-mini-2432volt/ You can get these for ~$130 if you shop around online.

$5,000 for controls and rigging is way too high for an F150. People thinking about re-powering should look into Tohatsu. Their prices include controls and rigging. All of their engines from 150 hp on up are rebadged Hondas. They are more available than most of the other brands and nobody can...

For the first time, I just read this thread and recall all the finicky carbed 2-stroke engines I've had to deal with over the years. I've never been able to figure out the source of the vapor lock that was so common during the summer. It's either in the fuel system or the carburetor bowls...

Grady used the same manual for almost all of their models in 1991. Unfortunately, it doesn't list capacities for specific models. https://www.gradywhite.com/explore/grady-owners/owners-manuals/ The 1991 204 had a 65-gallon tank. I would assume that the 209 used the same tank. If you search...

The alarm goes off well before 248 degrees. Each cylinder bank has its own thermoswitch that establishes continuity at 183-194 degrees and turns on the alarm. Depending on the rpm, the engine can go into limp mode controlled by the ECM. The alarm will stay on until the temperature drops below...

I once gaffed a 42 lb that was absolutely green. The fish was hooked boat side on light tackle and it refused to run or fight at all. After a couple of minutes of boredom, I stuck it with the gaff and dropped it into an open 200-quart cooler. Even with me sitting on the lid, the thing ripped...

You, or a shop, need to troubleshoot the problem with a YDIS connector from Yamaha. A stationary test should tell you if you have a bad coil and most other problems should be logged in the ECM and can be read with the YDIS and a laptop. Modern electronic fuel injected 4 strokes can't be tested...

Thanks! That looks like one of their handlebar mounts. They make so many different mounts and adaptors it's hard to find that particular one. But I think that anyone would work.

Thanks, but what I'm asking about is how the RAM mount is attached to the motor shaft. Using a RAM mount to stabilize the non-deployed motor is quite clever.

It might be a Uflex Square Flange Helm. They are the only ones I know of with a square footprint. They are compatible with the SeasStar system. Uflex Square Flange Helm

What was the voltage reading on your Garmin before you killed the old batteries? The voltage you read at the instrument is typically lower than that at the battery posts because of the small gauge wiring and the distance of the run. With a fully charged battery, it's not uncommon to read 12.4 -...

You don't want to use too much bleach or let it sit too long or it can damage the diaphragm in your water pump and any rubber washers in the system. Most RV sanitation directions go something like this: 1. Flush out the tank with fresh water to remove any loose debris. Clean the strainer...

That's a really nice installation! How is the shaft fastened to the RAM mount on the cabin?

I took a ride in Ky's boat back in 2010 when it belonged to the original owner. It was in sort of rough shape even then. He has done an amazing job with that boat!

I’ve never removed the relief screw. You just have to turn it a half turn counter clockwise to release the pressure. It fits into an internal joint which I have never seen except in the shop manuals. There must be a trick to moving the joint so the hole can be aligned with the screw, but I...

Contact Rick's Reel Service. If he doesn't have the original part he will often know of an equivalent. He did a part substitution on an old Penn 750 for me and it works fine. http://www.ricksreelservice.com/

This is what I use: Battery Lift Strap

To get the air out, get the cylinder as close to perpendicular to the ground as possible using the trailer jack. With the engine tilted up and resting on the trailer lock, close the pressure relief valve and fill the cylinder with fluid. Put the fill screw back in but don't completely tighten...

Remove the screw on the filler port and you should be able to lift the engine. Be prepared to catch any fluid that gets blown out.

I had to re-wire a new horn once and as I recall, I needed to remove the windshield wiper motor. I remember what a PITA it was getting the wiper range set up correctly. The new horn failed after about 6 months. :confused: