Good luck. He never responded back with any type of response to his misinformed idea of the angle of his boat being the problem and/or never read the given suggestion/guidance on what the REAL issue could be. Doubtful he'll respond to your question :)
But, I think there was mention of pricing...
I want to mention right up front that I did that entirely as a "I wonder if it would work" thing. I was curious. I knew that I could re-do it in a few hours if need be so it wasn't a big deal if it turned out to be a flop. I also did quite a lot of experimenting before I did it for real...
There's lots of different engines out there... different brands, old, new, 2-stroke, 4-stroke, etc. If you can list the checklist you're referencing and the specific engine, that would help! :)
To add onto what I just said... I suspect the poor results that you may have found on the internet are likely due to user error - possibly even using the wrong glass.
Oh... I repaired a hatch and use cheap foamboard insulation as an experiment. 7 years ago. :)
I've used other brands and never had an issue. You can use polyester resin if you want to save even more money. Epoxy is easier to work with - especially indoors. West is more expensive - but they have the nice mixing pumps and very good customer support - which comes at a price.
I don't know how big your hatch is, but get yourself a gallon. You won't need that much, but you'll find many uses for it in the future. Besides, most people use too much the first few times they do something like this.
If you can no longer get it from your dealer (did you try?), which is possible given the age of the boat, the other option would be to have it made by a company like New Wire Marine. Might be best to go right to them, anyways.
You might still find someone that has the same boat (or at least the same dash layout... as sometimes that changes throughout the model run)... and maybe they've done a similar mod. But I know if this was me, I would just get my 'ol tape measure out :)
Welcome aboard!
Yes, the fitting is just a standard thing with a nut.
I haven't done that job on your boat, but in nearly all cases... if there isn't something nearby that you can remove to access the fitting, then cut an access hole in an appropriate spot and fill the hole with a removable...
Ah, OK. That makes more sense! :)
So, I don't have your boat, but I'm not foreign to doing this kind of thing. So, every 12" GPS brand/model is going to be slightly different in it's sizing - even a "new" model Garmin 12" may differ from a previous version.
The best way to make sure you are...
Can you please delete this post? Just stick with your other one in the other sub-forum. Otherwise, it can get confusing for us when trying to follow two threads.
I would never trust an aftermarket manual for torque specs - although that 14 ft/lbs sounds about right from memory. I say "from memory" because I have never ever torqued a spark plug. Always by "feel".
There's no issues if you tightened it too much. It's just not advisable. Obviously...
These are all over the place - just Google for windlass foot switches.
Something seems off, though - any boat dealer will know how readily available these are - and if that was a GW original install, then they would have the GW part number. Was this NOT an original GW install? Truth be told...
Yes. For someone that has done this before, it's less than a 2-hour job. Certainly not expensive. For someone doing it themselves, that has never done it, it would just take a little longer.
If it's 20', that's still pretty decent. 30' even better. Still can't go wrong with more, though! But 20' is good.
Keep in mind that the proper scope is more important than the anchor size -- to an extent, anyways... I mean if you threw a 200lb anchor down there... :)
The reason I mention...