Search results

Here are two old threads that may help you. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8357&p=53331#p53331 viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13032&p=86635#p86635 The Florida tanks are, indeed, the original tanks. DO NOT "foam-in" the tanks whether you replace them or not.

You've raised a couple of points. First, any boat may capsize, which simply means it may roll over. The issue becomes whether or not a flooded or capsized boat may sink to the bottom. Grady's foam flotation, like other boats similarly constructed, prevents this, so the boat will float, though...

I'm not knowledgeable enough to properly size the length of a trailer that will be a good fit for your boat. That would be a question for other 282 Sailfish owners, or for a GW dealer who sells new ones. Check out the available axle ratings, and I think you'll find that 5200#'s is the maximum...

That would be a lot of boat for the money except for the leak. I don't know what the seller meant about the "mistake" during construction, but it sounds like he knows a lot more about it than you have mentioned. It looks like the boat has bottom paint, and if so, that means that at some point...

With your intended use, I think any style of the proper length that is properly weight rated will suit you just fine.

Are you going to store your boat or actually tow it, and if so, how far over what kind of roads? I'm biased in favor of bunk trailers for the better support they obviously provide, but then again, I needed it for the type of trailering I wanted to be able to do, which included long hauls over...

FWD bilge pump

If 1.5 nmpg is your optimum fuel milage running on plane in smooth seas, I would "roughly" expect that your mileage will fall off to 1.2 nmpg as you fall off plane and plow through the slop. With experience you will gain this knowledge. Without knowing for sure, running as far offshore as you...

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10185&p=66338#p66338

For navigation, boats less than 12 meters may show sidelights and an all-around white light instead of 225º white masthead light and a 135º white stern light. That's what you have, and it is lit 360º while underway. Everything you described is normal.

I have twin engines. I have no Command Link gauges and no Command Link System. I built a proprietary Raymarine SeaTalkng (NMEA2000) network connected to the SeaTalkng port on the MFD. At the stern of the boat, I dropped down two SeaTalkng "stripped end spur cables" spliced to a proprietary...

My gear does not fit your specifications, but if you would be satisfied with displaying GPH and other engine data on your C80 directly from your motor, without a fuel flow meter, I can tell you how I did it on a C120W with 2005 F150's. I am also displaying total fuel remaining and individual...

Although I agree with Curmudgeon 100%, I have been faced with an inaccessible location (even with the thought of "creating" access) where I resorted to your "plan." I used 5200 to adhere the smaller (diameter) stem of the new mushroom inside of the broken through hull. Try to get the longest...

Whether you decide on a new trailer or a re-fit, I would think that the "investment" in an all SS disk brake system (pricey) is questionable for you, unless you're going to keep your rig indefinitely. You really have to do the math and price out a new trailer vs. upgrades in the various material...

Good call. Buying a used boat is always going to involve some degree of compromise (heck, even a new boat), but when there are going to be other similar boats with counter-rotators, the wise decision is to keep looking and get what you want.

Since you have expressed your intent to "migrate to new," you must factor in your ability to sell the Grady you are now considering. I am going to go out on a limb, and say that since the introduction of counter-rotating Yamaha outboards motors in 1985(?), 100% of new, dealer rigged, twin Yamaha...

My experience exactly. I believe you've correctly identified the problem - salt water intrusion. Why is this happening? My cynical take would be that these pumps are not made as well as they used to be (where are they made anyway?) and are simply not fit for their intended use. Heaven forbid...

That's not acceptable. I suspect it's your "below waterline" mounting location which permits water intrusion into the electric motor, thus rusting it out. It has nothing to do with the switch being "on" while you are running.The pump's internal pressure switch is overriding you dash switch and...

Sorry, I do not know those details. I can say that, for me, the GPS accuracy and signal acquisition time of the iPhone is not noticeably different from my marine GPS unit.

Try turning it on and report back. Maybe you have a phone problem. On the Home screen tap Menu > Settings > Location > Use GPS satellites.