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Just spend more time on your buddy's big boat....

Home Depot has a section of the hardware aisle full of rolls of weather stripping and "marine" gasket. Also plenty of styles of rubber feet(bumpers)

thats probably not original. just a cheap latch. There many types out there on Amazon or marine stores. There are better type latches for heavy lids. This is similar

Some parts research... This is a good deal!!!

The new style FS30 Galv Isolator is much bigger than original and won't mount to bottom of gunnel in same place. And, I need to move the original in any case so I can mount a rodholder(fishing is the highest priority!) So either I move it somewhere or just disconnect and don't use AC. The...

there's something fishy about SMITH1. Very ChatGPT like...

I am considering updating the shorepower on my 265x. 30A Receptacle, inlet breaker and Galvanic Isolator are all original. New spec is an ELCI 30A breaker and a Fail-Safe galvanic Isolator(Promariner FS30). I never had a water heater and I removed the microwave (and the DC refrigerator) for the...

As someone who has replaced a transom in the past and probably didn't need to.... First, wood looks pretty damn good to me.. I'm guessing he's going to dig out the wood left in the 4" edge and tuck the new pieces in. There is no reason to rebuild the tab pockets unless you want to spend an...

If the 330 has the flat mounting areas, that saves you from using the fairings but you still need two transducers if you are not mounted on the keel. this explains it.

most anchor lockers drain to the bilge. It is typical grady to drill the holes in bulkheads and stringers after glassing, leaving core exposed. That won't be the only spot.... Not sure but I think they only keep the anchor locker separate from the bilge and put a drain when they have an anchor...

Never seen that before but if they are there, they are below the water line and you need a good hose.

The electronics in boats get added/replaced at different times and that second pic is not unusual. You can be OCD about how it looks but remember... as soon as you tie them all together nice & neat, you will have some reason to pull one out...

The picture is a 265 express not a 330. The inlets have no adverse effect on the GT51. I haven't looked under the generator on a 330. I'm surprised there is a "stringer" on the centerline. Maybe just a bulkhead for the generator platform? You can't offset it without using a fairing to keep...

https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/deck-drain-scupper-surprise.28979/

behind the two drawer unit in the cabin. puts it right under the captain's feet. away from pumps. Don't put ferrous items (tools) in the drawers. read thru this https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/autopilot-upgrade-from-manual-hydraulic.26808/ Its Garmin but you'll get some ideas about...

that would put you at 32-7/8 centers..... that is awful wide...doesn't sound right but I don't have a 30 fter. Your boat is a foot wider that mine so I guess that might be right....

This is the point about cross-corner connection of the charger and the load. The current to and from both batteries takes the same distance of wire.

I suspect that they are covering their ass . By telling you to connect each charger cable to one battery, you cannot F it up. If one were to connect one charge cable across two batteries that are in series, it would be bad. Having cables to each battery in parallel banks means you don't need...

like others, I'm a little confused about what the question is. Are you saying that the black bottom paint disappeared from around the light? Or was it not there to begin with? Are you concerned that the bronze light turned green? thats going to happen. Are you concerned with the tube worm shells?

Well the bottom holes are closer together(9-7/8") than the top (12-7/8") so idk what the 20" means. the measurement to make is from a top bolt of one motor to the same top bolt of the other motor. That will be the same as measuring center of motor to center of motor. of course, if the motors are...