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is that size required?!?!?!

would a 316 ss cap be better than aluminum? why doesnt anyone do that?

if your boat really is perfect for what you do, than anything different would not be perfect, right? or did you realize that your current boat is in fact, not perfect?

ill be painting the bottom soon and want something that is as close to color matched to the GW gelcoat color as possible. it would need to be a hard paint (not ablative). has anyone used something that looks pretty close?

so, with the boat on the trailer, you measured a total weight (boat and trailer) of over 8400 with fuel, water, gear, and misc crap?

this is actually what i suspect as well, but have no concrete evidence to support it. my transom also has large aluminum brackets that bolt to the stringers. not sure if that was on the shorter running surface boats as well. some day i will roll mine across the scales

id be interested in the details as well. the advertised dry weight includes no fuel, no engines, no personal stuff that accumulates over the years...

its a similar illogical pattern for the Chase line as well. Grady didnt have an answer when i called except for possibly more standard features.

this has been talked about a few times here. there is some doubt in the applicability of the weights listed for comparing apples to apples boats. There are models in the early 2000s with similiar weight changs with no major re-designs. could they have just laid heavier glass? maybe. could...

in for the discussion

as said, the aluminum tanks seem to have a 20-25 year life expectancy. i ended up buying a tank and doing the work myself

looks new

i have the 263 which is the same hull as the 273, both of which are narrower than the 275 if i recall correctly. i have 2006 3.3L F250s on mine. it does sit low in the stern. the scuppers are partially submerged when at the dock. that being said, it runs great btw, my sig pic doesnt really...

im not sure what exactly you are asking. if you are familiar with SKR, you know what it would do on the boat....

dont be shy with 5200

so, not to sound like a jerk, but you are talking about a windshield for a nearly 20 year old boat. it may not be fair to write off a company because you cant find one part for an old boat. grady does do a good job with alot of things (general specs, vendor contacts, fuel tank drawings...)...

dont have them do the canvas holes. do that after yourself after you install it. have you tried these guys? https://www.gpboatwindshields.com/optin1616117841693

im still surprised with all the growth in the marine electronics industry that there isnt something like this already made by garmin or raymarine.

how do you plan to install them into the boat?

understood. you could cut the old ones off with an angle gringer (wear a mask if cutting galvanized) and then get bolt on bunks. id probably only go this route if you got a really good deal. like said above, adjustable bunks are far more common than fixed.