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The lines on your outrigger should be out further than your flat lines(gunnel holders) so that you don't foul the lines when turning.

I assume it is the same setup as on my 2000 272. The knob in the back inside of the fridge is the on/off and temp setting. You should be able to turn the unit on or off using that knob if your house battery is turned on. As far as I know there is no other way to turn it on regardless of whether...

Maybe you misunderstood what I was saying. To test the float on the sealed unit all you have to do is turn the small plastic sleeve where the wires enter the unit. That will raise the float. It is designed that way so you can test it. I believe your float is a mercury tube unit. They are prone...

If it were me I would just spend $10 on anti-freeze and the half hour to empty and service the fresh water system so I wouldn't have to wonder/worry. If you have any raw water intakes (livewell etc.) I would just leave the seacocks open just to be safe. My 2 cents anyway. Good luck with the...

While I did not take the "cover" off last season when I replaced both of mine, that is all that is in there.....a regular float. I replaced my aft switch with a traditional float because that was all I sould find the day I was replacing it. I am not sure why you want to take it apart. It either...

It should turn feely where the wires enter the sealed box. Hold the wires and turn. You will feel the switch lifting. If it is working the pump will come on. If the pump doesn't come on you may need to replace the assembly. Check the connections for the float switch before you remove it. You may...

I bought a few as backup a few years ago. The local Grady dealer had them. If I recall, they were not very expensive (maybe $10). Also, when I removed the old switch , which was not working, I decided to clean it up before I disconnected it. Turned out that is all it needed. It has been working...

Try removing the line at the output side of the pump and turn the pump on. That should prime the pump. Then reconnect and you should be good to go. Also, if you are winterizing a 10 gal tank, I would think that a half to 1 gallon of anti-freeze is more than enough.

Tashmoo, For the fish we are catching up here, typically footballs to likely 200 pound class fish next year, 50's and 50W's are, in my opinion, the better reels for standup gear. I typically run 30's and 50's. Given that you already have the 80's I would suggest bent butt rods matched with...

I have a 2000 Sailfish (bought new) powered with twin 200 HPDI's. Top speed is still 43 mph 10 years later. I cruise around 33mph at 4200 to 4400 RPM's and typically get 1.7 to 1.8 mpg at that speed. I can get about 1.9 mpg at 3600 rpm's and 28 mph. Personally I am happy with the setup but...

Have you tried letting the pump run for a few minutes while keeping a faucet open? Sometimes that is what it will take to get it reprimed and pressurized. The other thing I had to do once in the past was to disconnect the water line on the output side of the pump and see if it will squirt water...

After changing the front float switch on my 272, and looking at what it would take to change the aft, I called my local dealer and had them change the aft switch when they came to winterize. It was the best $50 labor I ever spent. Good luck with yours. I can't imagine it is any easier to get...

You might want to also pour some antifreeze into the head floor drain until the sump pump runs pink.....and don't forget the windshield washer.

I replaced mine at the end of the season on my 2000 200 HPDI's as a precaution. This was the third season (same rationale...didn't use the boat a lot last season due to a late start). Every two years is not unreasonable. Sounds like you have been lucky if they have never been replaced since...

Regardless of which you disconnect first, it is always a good itea to have a few wire ties handy and tie the cables together as you remove them from each and every terminal. You will be glad you did come spring.

It happened to me once many years ago. Try disconnecting the hose on the output side of the pump, turn on the pump and see if it will output water. If it does then reconnect and open a faucet and see if you get water. If it doesn't output water....then you probably have a clogged filter or a bad...

I follow the same procedure religiously. They are only open when is use and closed before leaving the boat .

I have been using a product called 210 since the boat was new 10 years ago. The original eisenglass still looks like new. I rarely roll up any except the back center and sometimes the back left and right. 210 also makes a scratch remover, which I have tried, but I don't believe any product is...

I can't be sure, but on my 272 I think the starboard side pump is the livewell. Having said that, there are really only two viable possibilities for what you describe. Either you closed the wrong valve or the valve is defective (if that is possible).

Based on what Renovator, Lundinroof and workdog are saying, it sounds like it is worth going for the rebuild versus replace. I will go ahead and do the 2 o-rings as well as the shaft seal as long as the assembly will be removed to do the shaft seal anyway. Thanks again for the feedback.