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Just an FYI. The fact that the light doesn't come on does not mean the switch is not working. I have had a light out on one of mine for years. Having said that, the above advice sounds good. Good luck.

I owned a Champion bass boat for many years. Great boats but certain years/models are known for transom problems. I read the Champion boat section of Bass Boat Central website freuently. You can search the site for the topic (numerous threads on how to dry a transom). Here is a link for a video...

I would suspect that the reason that Grady doesn't recommend bypassing the heater is because if you turn on the heater when it is dry, even for a very brief peiod, you will burn out the heating element. There really is no other reason I can think of not to.

Don't know the answer on the macerator location (and hope I never need to), but the fresh water pump should be located behind the back panel in the aft (coffin) berth. The hot water heater should have a drain faucet on the starbord side, bow end of the heater. The pressure relief valve should...

I just had both end caps replaced last week. I have owned the boat (2000 Sailfish) since new and this is the second time they have been replaced, about seven years apart. The seal kit cost about $150 USD and the labor was $200. I also had all the seals replaced in the helm box about 5 years ago...

While I don't know the "anchoring requirements" for your area, I have had to cut an anchor loose before when it lodged under a rock, presumably. It was either that or lose a pulpit. If you think you need all chain for some reason, you better make sure you have a good set of bolt cutters onboard...

Re: Fresh water system clog...how to unclog the tank fitting Did you try checking the screen just before the pump? That is what usually clogs up first. It is pretty unusual for a clog to form in the line itself, even at an elbo.

I have come close to losing one a few times. Even a new bolt didn't solve the problem. Ended up using some loc-tite (sp?) and so far so good.

What he said.

Without knowing your location or what the cushion looks like (size and shape) it is hard to say how far out of line the quote you got is. What I can say is if the quote was from your local Grady Dealer or the factory, you can almost always get a much better price from a local marine upholstery...

Looks great. All you need now are a few seats and you will be good to go. :o) Kidding aside...looks like a quality job.

I had mine done a few years ago by Allstate in Danvers. Not cheap, but does a good job. Here is a link if you need it. http://allstatemarine.com/home/1758115

Give it a shot. I would like to see how it came out. Never use my fridge, but use ths aft berth which is more than enough for bulk storage.

I would just find another guy if you have that option. Also, I would worry more that he didn't run the wrap all the way down to the waterline/bottom paint. Hopefully there won't be too much chafing, but there will be 6 more months of oxidation/fading on your hull. For what it is worth.....I pay...

Shut mine down everytime regardless of what I am fishing for. If the boat is not moving other than a drift then why not shut them down? If I only had one engine then I might reconsider when 30 to 50 miles out, but then again, I might reconsider being that far out if I only had a single.

Don't know the exact dimensions, but they are box speakers. They were installed along with all the electronics when I bought the boat new and I never looked up inside to see what they were. 6 x 9 sounds a bit large to fit up under the gunnel though and, just to clarify, they are downward facing...

I ordered one a few years back from my loical Grady dealer. Was not very expensive and had it in about a week.

The setup on my 272 is just as you describe above with the 2 additional speakers being under the gunnels in the cockpit. They are just about even with the aft facing seats. The sound is good and the speakers are well protected.

Sure sounds like a clear case of larceny. I would just turn the matter over to the police

Try scraping it with a piece of wood, then take a stiff brush to it. Should get most of it off and will not harm the transducer.