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West is good.....so is Mas, System 3, or Epiglass....any marine epoxy will do....thicken it with Cabosil and milled fibers (not fairing fillers)....those how to's drawings are pretty good

I would go with the 25 journey at a minimum or 29 chesapeake walk around versions if you want that comfort and space down below....the mrs will like the accomodations

2 inch rise? That's pretty good.....was this a change of bracket, ie, from the OEM Springfield Aluminum to the Hermco, or was this a retrofit, ie no bracket to full twin? That would solve alot of scupper issues.....

closing it up will be nice...but if you do, get a full floatation bracket, like the hermco....also if repowering, keep as close as possible to the original 2s engine weight to keep the scuppers above the waterline..

thats really a great price.....what thickness plate? .125?

Dam...they came out great! do you have step by step pics?

"Fairly dry" is a relative term....epoxy or Vinyl ester resin won't stick to a damp substrate...need to be around 8%...if 10 or 12%, you are gambling but it may work...I don't think anything higher than 12% will be successful....if you cut away some of the grid, I would sister in some ply and...

Michigan is a good ways from Florida and New Jersey where the tanks were quoted, but I bet there are guys closer to make a new tank for you.....but metal isn't cheap anymore..so we gotta pay.. Not sure why you need to make a new hole in the stringer for the fuel line...should already be there...

$1200 for a 3/16 tank is about right.......the aux 75 gallon tank will be around $700......the original buiders in Florida are no bargain and you have shipping costs on top....where are you located?

5200 should have no effect on the tank...it is a widely used adhesive for gluing in the rubber strips.....just make sure its completely glued in, ie, no gaps or voids...the edges of the rubber should look like caulk around your bathtub..... I don't know about gluing down the strip to the...

Not much info on the new e7, but i would bracket mount and remove if i were in a mooring.....thieves are getting balls and stealing at marinas...moorings are just to easy in my opinion...

1/8 inch should be fine...just make sure the strips are completely 5200 in, ie, no place for water to ever get between the rubber and the tank..full glue up. Any radius and sharp edges on the wood strips going to the hull....nice rounded sweeps....you can cut the wood that way or make epoxy fillets.

Sounds like a poor way to set the tank in the compartment......the weight of the tank flattened your bilge drain.....I would change the PVC bilge drain so its round again. Then I would epoxy and glass in supports or sleepers as they call them for the tank to sit on.....the tank should solidly...

so were looking at a 6 rod set up per side?.....thats pretty good How did you screw the holders into the side of the boat?,......what depth screw did you use?

The bolts may even be a fine thread...don't force a standard coarse thread if it won't go...get both...there's only a few of them needed so its not alot of money to cover your bases. Use grade 5 bolts at a minimum..(3 lines on the head) Grade 8 are normally used on things like engine stands..( 6...

or maybe something broke loose...maybe your depth finder is wobbling around

Just use ATF for the trim tabs.....ATF is a hydraulic fluid...you don't need special trim tab fluid...and the Bennet system usually bleeds itself when recirculating through the reservoir...

but the area must be really dry or none of the resin will stick.....don't cover it until its bone dry

do you already have one or are you making one from scratch including the frame?