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Not sure about your exact model drain, but companies like Perko, Attwood, TH Marine and Marelon make some plastic versions....I have the Perko bronze version on the sailfish so its different from the Seaferer....check the websites out...if you want to stay with a plastic, I would go with Marelon...

CG, he is putting in a structural foam core and then a pourable core? Why not use one or the other and glass the outside?

http://boatbuildercentral.com/ these guys have great prices and great products with lots of rebuilding help.....If I were you, I would join their forum, post pics, and get a lot of help from some very experienced people who run the site. I believe they have an add on this site as well. This...

yes...open and drain it....use a proper fitting tool that tightly grabs the sides....not a 12pt socket or anything.......you may need some heat....just use a propane torch to get it hot enough to expand and break the bond between the threads...let cool, then apply the torque to the nut....an...

Correct NEM....that is the typical way of replacing the transom core as you well know.....you get full contact between core and existing skin doing it like that......I understand Bob's idea of using one skin to bond in a new stringer core and using the opposite stringer as a wedge to prop one...

Bob, I was using the "transom and 2x4" wording as an example of how folks clamp in a new core...since you have both sides of a transom exposed, its a big clamp when thru bolting it.....using the other stringer as a base to prop 2x4's against the opposite new core, like shoring up a wall in...

Bob, to go from this... To this, takes a lot of time....all that surface area needs to be ground clean...using a 4 inch disc grinder works great but takes forever. It looks small, but so is the edge of a 4 inch disc. This is what you normally do when you're replacing the transom....and...

The bulkhead at the transom goes all the way across....the one shown in the picture between the stringers only goes as far as the second stringer under the deck...so if he doesn't want to go "all the way", just replace what was just removed in the photo. But if he goes to the "last phase" as Bob...

This is the 64,000 dollar question....how far do you want to take this? If you keep digging you may end up replacing the entire grid....are you prepared to take this kind of project on? You have already removed 75% of that rear bulkhead...thats the part that goes between the 2 inner stringers...

Not sure how you plan on digging the rot out without completely cutting all the wood out. Forget digging rot from in between the glass and leaving any original tabbing..you will waste a lot of time doing that....you have to cut the glass flush to the hull with a sawzall, then using a disc...

If its one of those Apollo marine in line ball valves, its just a stainless nut holding it on.....hold the handle down and use a wrench on the nut......but if you can't get a wrench in the area, you may need to remove the ball valve and possibly the thru hull completely and do it out of the...

$9 per yard delivered? Well, I guess....the couple of bucks difference isn't that much...its the total cost if he needs to do EVERYTHING.....again, the can of worms scenario.....I'm also not a big fan of "General Purpose" resin unless its got a brand name associated with it or a long...

Wahoo Capt! That hull looks great!! Nice work!! Don't know much about her performance, but if it were me and I was repowering an inboard engine, I'd go with a diesel like Yanmar...I like the added safety of diesel vs gas, plus you don't need to ever deal with ethanol problems, and you'll get...

How did you break it? Is the seacock corroded and jammed? Or did the rod corrode?

Need pics......tough to see whats going on

Yup...those came out great........how do the 2 lids feel when you step on them> Can you feel the difference? Excellent work! :goodjob

Most t-tops are made with already anodized aluminum tubing...then after welding, they just use a touch up paint over the welds.....but if you're keen on removing the top as one piece, anyone who does large industrial anodizing will have a tank big enough to do that.....the finish will be bright...

Well, this is where the "can of worms" can come into play....I started EXACTLY the same way....just the tanks....then just the bulkheads.....then just the inside stringers because I saw the same rot as in the picture....then I saw the foam and it was wet....then I saw the 2nd stringers.....then...

I can tell you right now, if you start cutting, you will open up a can of worms....what is your intention with this boat? short term ie less than 5 years or long term? Short term, I'd do the tanks, bulkheads and tank covers....stuff that is easily accessible and replaceable.....if you cut the...

Perfect...this will allow the local HMaster/Police or CG to give out fines on sight....just like seat belt laws....Big Brother at it again.