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6 inches of area is pretty good....I would grind the motor well area a little and wrap the new outer skin over and around the core to the inside as you can see there...you'll need to do that anyway to secure the joint between the new and existing glass in the m-well....demo work looks...

Going from the outside?? Make sure you leave as much material or original outer skin as possible to bond the new glass to....otherwise you'll have to wrap it around the gunwales and bottom to get a good surface bond and then you'll need to fair it....that's alot of extra work

It is the way Grady did it....but it not required....just use thickened epoxy in between each layer of wood.....you can add an extra layer or two on the outside/inner skin to make up the thickness difference and it may actually be stronger.

..Wow, you were lucky to have the high tech gear as a kid....we used truck tire intertubes and a wooden skid! Try playing and fighting as a pirate on that!!! :lol:

So when are you quitting your day job and opening a boat yard on LI :D

1st post, no picture, no reply... :uhm

Again, its tough to see from that picture....but regardless, even its just really scratched up bad, I would brush or roll on some epoxy in that area, give it a quick sanding with 80 grit and cover it with some bottom paint...anytime you open up the finished surface, you're going to allow a more...

The bow eye needs to be drilled out clean and inspected before knowing how to fix....if its just a little bigger than original, thickened epoxy should be good....but if you need to remove a lot of material to get to good glass, and the 3/8 hole is now 1 inch, you will need some small layers of...

look at all above and get it surveyed......an 82? less than 20.....maybe less than 10...depends on how well its holding up.

only to someone who strictly trailers or lifts their boat and wants a clean hull.....the rest of the folks who keep the boat in salt water will have paint on the bottom as its needed

Tough to tell from the photo....other than the worn off or scratched of gel coat, are there any cracks, chips or glass showing at all?....if its cosmetic...I'd still put a layer of thickened epoxy over it, sand it fair, then paint....it will add some waterproofing........but if your gouged, you...

Unless its rotted, why would you use git-rot? Need some pics to really see whats going on....but it sounds like you'll need at least a little glass to patch the golf ball sized hole and some epoxy or vinyl resin

the boat seems fairly new....may not find used ones out there.....i'd go new from the dealer or manufacturer

does it have a readout and tell you what the battery is and will be charged to?

you can use either the wood or the foam core, but if you go with foam, you may need to add a layer of glass on the bottom side (facing the bilge) as GW uses only a thin layer of glass on the inside and a thicker layer on the gelcoat side (not sure why..maybe cost/good enough)....since the foam...

It depends on what you mean by worth restoring.....its a vintage GW and is as good as any 71' boat in the same class, barring maybe a couple of brands...just becomes a personal choice on if you like it and if you're keeping it...forget making money on it....the cost will be the same if you're...

I'd wait on the painting until it's out of the boat. You'll be cleaning, sanding, repairing holes, etching then epoxying....and it will be easier to do the whole thing at once....no point rushing it if it's coming out anyway. After soaking the screws in penetrating oil, I made sure I had the...

But you gotta block them from coming back...looks like they continue to post

Looks like spam...again! Is that a 2 part or single part epoxy? No info on catalyst or mixing how to. Looks like the company (Bluewater) specifically sells an anti-corrosive 2 part epoxy called Marine AC 70 and 80 for use on large ships, bilges, tanks etc.

http://www.pacificpilothouse.com/