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Keep in mind, that to fully help, we can only use the information that you provide :) Did you have good charging voltage from both sources?

Checking a battery for voltage doesn't (definitively) tell if it's bad. Charging it fully and then load testing does, however. Just seeing low voltage doesn't tell the whole story (see my post above).

When I mentioned checking voltage, above, I meant directly at the battery. Need to first figure out if the issue is upstream or downstream of the batteries.

This can be a fun project - but I don't think it's something you want to try and create before having the existing panel in your hand. Nothing against any of the guys here, but to make this look GOOD, your dimensions need to pretty much dead-on and you don't want to rely on some guy's...

Easier solution.... Check for charging voltage (via both battery charger and engine running). If good, disconnect the cables at the batteries and load test each battery. Replace the bad one... and the other one unless it's recently replaced.

What does it cover?

A scothpad or a stiff bristled brush will work. It doesn't take much to get the wax off. Always always always do multiple tests/trials with gel coloring - like paint, the dried color is different than the wet color. Label each test with exactly how many drops of each color you use and the...

It sounds like you pretty much have it figured out. Was there something specific you were curious about? For places like hard top feet, that's a great place to use butyl rubber tape. BRT puts silicone/caulks to shame :)

I did - it's getting awful close to the "need" to do it. But it also depends on how the boat will be used - if it will end up being trailered, then it's less of an issue. If it will be going in a slip, I'd change it for piece of mind.

No, I don't. I've only ever sent the compass back to Ritchie and it comes back looking like new. It was a while ago that I did that - don't recall price. But I know there have been plenty of others that have done it, too. Call them and ask them before you go too far?

No, not at all. You weren't incorrect in any way. But often people read these threads and I only wanted to add some extra clarification. I guess using the term "correctness" was meant more in a very general way... but maybe it wasn't the "correct" choice of words... ;)

Well... for the sake of "correctness" :) it can be used on any boat with a thru-hull pickup, regardless of style of boat. An inboard/v-drive ski boat... a v-drive/inboard cruiser... a sterndrive boat with a B3 that was reconfigured to thru-hull... a generator... air conditioning...

For "tilt" suppose ideas... sometimes you can simply use a 2x in the right spot :)

The anode is doing it's job - that's what they are designed to do. That is a GOOD thing. It's still "decent" - but it's getting close to replacement time. The trim pump - it happens - pretty normal. It starts at the crack between the top cap and body as that's a "hard" edge that doesn't hold...

You don't need a fake a lake to run the engine. You needs "muffs" - they're about $6 and look like ear muffs. This is for running it at home which is smart to do. At the ramp, you just back it into the water - nothing else is needed. But keep it on the trailer till you're satisfied. You...

Oh... put the plug in...........

Sure! Do you have access to a hose? Get a set of "muffs" ad run it at home. Does your engine have dual water intakes? I don't think so on that engine - but double check - it's easy to see by just looking. If so, tape/cover the extra intake. Then let it run for a while to charge batteries -...

He tricked us! :) Cup's shouldn't be too hard to find - do you have a local marine store nearby? Or one you can mail it to? I don't mean a West Marine - I mean a real place :) Otherwise, just check the specs on what you find online and compare - Google for something like boat pedestal...

I agree - those look quite nice, actually. If you're having issues with moving the seat, it might be due to another issue. I would just clean them up and put the seat back on. If you want, use some dry lube.

That worked out well... thanks for typing the brunt of the response, Skunk! :) I would start by "skinning" the top glass layer about twice as big as you circled. Yes, stay away from corners/edges so you don't have to rebuild them. Given how thin the top glass layer is, you'll realistically...