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Sounds like you have all your bases covered. Survey the boat- be there for it and ask questions. Have a tech look @ the engine and be sure to have more than just a compression test done (wire harnesses, pumps, hoses, clamps, etc.). Do not take delivery w/o a sea-trial.

If you can afford to go a couple years newer, I would suggest post '91 (92 & newer) b/c of the SeaV2 hull design. With that being said, the 228 is an awesome boat. I agree w/ Al, 10.4 seems a little strong but in this boating economy, he should work w/ you. BTW, I think you'll be disapointed...

PROPS There is a lot more to props than just propulsion. a 4 bladed prop is designed to reduce bow rise (your tabs will do that), but will comp. your top end speed ($$). Go to the Michigan Prop. website and you'll find some good info there. Seafarer 228, 250 SWS II w/ Michigan Ballistic 3...

try wax/restorer.

check the 226 vs. 228 posts- same issue

Try splicing a smaller thimble into the opposite end of the line, plus it doubles the life of your line (rotate each season).

Grady used to use Lee for their rod holders but now they obviously say GW on them. Try Lee, Google or E-bay, or you're going through Grady-Ouch!

I ALWAYS take w/ a grain of salt a tech's claim "they always go at..." My mechanic told me the same thing when my '97 250 SWS II was overheating at idle. I found that reply unacceptable. 15 minutes of homework diagnosed a stuck high pressure grommet. I dealt w/ that G.D. buzzer for an entire...

Check out some of Michigan Propeller SS props. I have a Ballistic on my 228-w/ 250 SWS II. Awesome prop. & performance. I'll post the specs as soon as I can remember/confirm them.

FOR BEST MANEUVERABILITY, YOU WANT A TOW BIT FORWARD OF THE ENGINE (THROUGH-BOLTING A POST). MY CONCERN W/ TOWING FROM THE TIE-DOWNS IS FOWLING YOUR PROP AND NOW HAVING TO DISABLED VESSELS!

a surveyors best tool is the end of a screwdriver. He'll go over the hull tapping looking for soft or dead spots. He'll check for moisture check electrical, steering, etc. He should go over all the systems to confirm they are operational. He's basically signing off on the overall integrity of...

I think w/ that cocktail, you've got all your bases covered. W/ that being said, don't go the extra mile on fuel and skimp on the oil. Pay the extra money.

Agree. He even mentions proactive in his post. My bad.

you should be paying somewhere b/t $300-$500 for a quality survey. On a 19' boat it may be a little less-$200 range. Be there when the survey is done- DON'T BE AFRAID TO ASK QUESTIONS. look for a thorough, in depth survey and report. You're spending hard earned money-get your $$'s worth- it...

Unless you drive your boat very hard and do minimum maintanence, I'd be very surprised if you have transom rot/issues. That 'vintage' is not really old at all. Have it looked at if you're concerned before you start doing "assumption" repairs. My '92 Seafarer is rock solid. (Knock on transom wood)!

SOUNDS LIKE A LOT OF WORK. WHY DON'T YOU MODIFY THE DOOR?

try the hose from the outside in or try to snake it. I've had mussels clog up my scups- make sure the thru-hull is clear.

As a 228 owner, I would agree that the 226 has one blatant safety advantage. I would assume in a major swamping (wave over the bow) water will go out the motor well and scuppers considerably faster than the scups alone on the 228. W/ all that water weight, you're potentially 'sunk'.