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As others mentioned, simply slide the winch up higher and put the strap under the roller. At that point, that's the best you can do. Why do you think there is too much tongue weight? Did you measure it? Do that. Shoot for somwhere around 300lb to 400b and you'll be fine - that amount of...

I've done worse. That's not to say it's right, but you're within the margin of error for this type of thing. Just take it easy and slow. And, as noted, the ramp may be the toughest part. Have a couple guys stand on your front bumper

Agree that a couple inches above the waterline is close enough to make no difference. However, I only am offering advice based on the info given - if his terminology is wrong, then that's up to him to describe better.

Before you do anything else, trim up more - till just before it ventilates or speed no longer increases.

Boy, to gain 1,000+ of RPM, you'd have to drop 5" or maybe even 7". That just doesn't seem right. There might another explanation. Is the hull bottom super clean? Are you 100% positive that the engine is healthy? A couple quick things... -- Compression -- All injectors firing -- Good gas...

What's the purpose of a check valve in a vent system to begin with? I put a whistler in my vent - but that's a not a check valve. FYI... LOVE the whistle! "Possibly" the issue got worse over time because of overfilling and the carbon cannister is starting to get plugged up? FYI, FYI... trash...

If you have plastic fittings below the waterline... get those out of there right away. They shouldn't be there to start with. If you have Marelon fittings, that's different and perfectly fine. Do they not have a seacock? You can just close that. Or remove the seacock and put a cap on the...

Harpo, you said that you have normal flow with the engine running... can we assume you mean the "tell tale" hole? If so, there's no need to clear something that isn't clogged... which then makes me think you're talking about something else. This is your first step: Find where the remote...

Ah, OK. So in that case there must be a water hose going through the rigging grommet - which would be easy to see with the hood off

Reiterrating/clarifying... how does a fitting mounted to the boat's splashwell serve to flush an OB engine?

Doesn't the engine have a flush fitting built right into the lower cowling? Instead of guessing, follow the hose on the backside of that fitting... where does it go? How would that fitting even be connected to the engine to start with?

Did you check, yet, if that fittign is a bulkhead fitting? Or have you just not been to the boat, yet? I meant to mention this earlier... you could always INSTALL a bulkhead fitting for this very easily since you already have an access plate hole... the sender. My opinion differs on the AS...

I "think", but am not sure... that the hex is actually a bulkhead fitting. If so, then there is a retaining nut on the inside of the tank to hold the fitting in place. Remove the sender and feel for a nut on the inside.

Nothing real crazy/special about the removal - its' like any other nut/bolt. Holding back the large nut is a good idea. You can also try some tightening/loosening back and forth pressure.

Unscrew the p/u tube tank fitting.

Do you mean the cabin door? Is it fixable? I don't know if yours is teak or plastic, but getting a new one in plastic would certainly be less expensive. You may find used teak ones, though (and/or plastic). Check with companies like Teak Isle, Boat Outfitters, Great Lakes Skipper. If...

Thanks for posting that picture, Chris - yes, that is a vented cap. The style I was referring to was where the cap essentially fits inside the plate, not over top like yours.

As mentioend already, the MOST common reason for this is a clogged vent system. This can be a clog in the hull vent or even the vent line. And you ABSOLUTELY have a vent line. If your deckfill plate is basically flush with the cap, then you DO have a hull vent. If your cap is vented, then it...

Grady part numbers (like all boat manfacturers) are useful only within the Grady dealer realm. Outside of that, you need to get the ACTUAL manufacturer of the item. There will (should) be a tag on the motor for brand/model. This way you are guaranteed to get the right thing.

Of course!