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Oh, got it. If that's the reasoning... they're not needed. I think my boat has a couple turn snaps "near" the floor - but there's nothing actually "on the floor".

What are you concerned about home son the floor? There are no holes needed there for either of the styles we are talking about.

You're welcome to assume....... but leave "me" out of the equation.

OK, so it really comes down to how long you're going to be using battery power without the engines running. Without a dedicated house battery to use for this purpose, you're kind of in the middle of "recommendations". Which also means there's leaway with recommendations. Best practice is a...

Oh... do you have 2 batteries? Or do you have an extra one or two batteries for the house load? Sorry - should have asked that ahead of time. All of these things get factored in to the equation!

No worries, my friend! To be more specific, how much use of various items will you have with the engines turned off? Also... "usual systesms" can vary quite a lot from one person's opinion to another :)

Sounds like you either have a clog on the intake grate on the bottom of the boat... or the pump impeller is worn out/broken

Nope, it absolutely does not. Where do you see the size/HP listed?

How will you be using the batteries? You didn't mention what engines you have? Regardless, you certainly don't need a big battery to start (I'll assume something like a 150HP) smaller engines. Group 24 is MORE than enough. But.. the first two questions need answers to start with.

Getting the covers all at the same time - that would make sense. But when a cover is bought after the fact (whether OEM or whatever), covers will need the snaps to be installed to align with where the snaps where placed on the boat. There is no "pattern" for this. When they're made all at the...

Yeah, it's not one those names/words that's used all that much!

Are you saying that the bilge pump is running constantly? Or, it actually sounds like you want to disable the auto function? If that's the case, why? But... just remove the fuse (or flip the breaker) for the auto side of the pump. If you remove the ground... won't you also be eliminating the...

So you have a "tambour door". It's hard to say what to disassemble on your boat without seeing pictures of the area :)

The snap-on helm cover that Seasick mentioned is going to be the easiest to put on and the least costly to buy/make. Note that if you find a company that can make it for you, you will still need to attach the snaps to the cover to match what's on your boat... and/or add snaps to the boat if...

What do you mean by "strange fitment"? From looking at the pics, it seems that knurled metal end should friction fit into the fitting by your finger. You may need to glue it in, at this point. For the cracked one... see if you can source a new one. BUT, in the meantime, put a couple zip ties...

Good-n-snug - not Superman tight. Never found a need for tape, myself. It doesn't take much to seal out to water - bronze is a soft metal. I once did it only hand tight and after about 5 hours in the water, less than a pint of water came out.

That all sounds good. FYI... the plug you remove to drain the bilge is called the "garboard" drain. The bilge pump exits simply through a "thru-hull" fitting.

Put it where you want it. There won't be a stringer... possibly a bulkhead... but if you run into that, great - extra meat to screw in to. And, yes, use Toggler's and don't worry about trying to find any subfloor bracing. You may/may not have any foam in the way - it's not sprayed into the...

The transom is at least 1-1/2" thick, if not more. But in reality, you could put 3" screws in there - they would just poke out the other side, is all - which is no big deal. BUT... Start by screwing them in by hand. If it starts to get really tough (which is a good thing), then back out and...

That's a good way to say it! N = X