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We owned a 258 Journey for ten years. The first five she was powered with the 3.4L Yamaha F250, which I was happy with. Then we put on the 4.2L F300 when it came out. That was the perfect engine for the 258 - if you're okay with a single engine, as I was for this boat. The F300 made a...

I've used Tony Stewart about a dozen times. Farthest was FL to MI. He is licensed and insured. He uses his truck and he has several trailers. Tony's number is 561.253.4007. He has always taken good care of my boat.

Freddy: Welcome to the Forum. That's a nicely laid-out Grady. I'd be interested to hear your assessment after a few weeks of running her. Rob

Good idea if you just want to give AC a trial run before you spend a bunch of money and effort on it. I did this very thing for the first vacation trip in our Sailfish. Fortunately, we had a 6" inspection plate in the aft berth that I could tie the AC's exhaust hose into. By removing another...

Along those same thoughts of needing a strainer, I agree. Rather than attempt to add to the bottom of the seacock, I opted to put a high-volume, high quality strainer/filter in-line between the seacock and the water pump. That way I can get at whatever gunk comes through. I thought the strainer...

An alternate suggestion: If you're willing to give up the overboard discharge from the waste tank (but keep deck pump out), you could use that seacock as your dedicated cooling water and only open the seacock when you run the AC. The factory option usually ran a hose all the back to the bilge...

I believe that aluminum bracing tieing the transom to the stringers has been standard issue for most, if not all Gradys for many years. I recall that my 1995 208 had some version of it.

I've not encountered aluminum sandwiched between the ply. What I have seen is aluminum bracing, visible from inside the bilge, to reinforce the transom.

I still don't get why they won't sell to a Grady owner. My marina was willing to do the repair. They even tried three different off-the-shelf actuators, all at an uninformed Bennett rep's advice. But once I took the boat to my my pricey Grady dealer, the marina's offer to pick up the tab was off...

Rfazilat: The total bill was $1,475.30. But my 'Palm Beach' dealer is probably more expensive than most. They charge $155 per labor hour. The parts, including the caulk and Sikaflex beneath the new cap, only came to $117. It was taking the engines on and off and then labor to actually replace...

I didn't see any new boat prices that weren't crazy! And I don't think it's limited to Gradys.

I was wrong. I was back at that same dealership and the price tag is $169k, not 139k like I wrote previously. Don't know which is worse, my eyes or my memory!

I am pretty sure the dealer just caulked in the new cap.There was no glass work on the bill. Also, had the dealer replace a Bennett trim tab actuator which the marina's fork lift bent. For those who may not know, Bennett made these parts specifically for Grady and they cannot be bought 'off the...

Bill: Sent you a PM. Rob

Bill: I'm sure the props are worth what you're asking for them. But I'm afraid that shipping will push them above what they would be worth to be. I already have a spare pair, but these appear to be in nicer shape. Would you consider $400 for the pair? And, of course, I pay shipping, which I'm...

I noticed that the creeping corrosion of the aluminum transom bang cap cap on my 2007 Sailfish seemed to have accelerated over the past year. I had this same piece replaced with Grady's polyelythlene replacement on my 2005 Journey and I liked the look. In this case, the work needed to be done...

Another Toy: Why did the drain tubes fail? If it is simple corrosion or the sealant giving out, then my post is irrelevant. On a previous Grady, both of my drain tubes cracked down the middle. My dealer said it was obvious that the factory installer used too much muscle on the flanging (?)...